When making some clothes, small pieces of fabric are deliberately sewn into them, having a diamond-shaped, triangular or rectangular shape. Each such insert is called a "gusset". What it is? What is the gusset for, and how to sew it into the product? This is detailed in our article.
Gusset - what is it?
The gusset is often compared to a patch. But these are completely different concepts. A patch is a piece of fabric that is sewn onto clothing to hide a hole in it. It is the purpose of the gusset that differs from it. What is it?
A gusset is a piece of fabric that is sewn into places where there is a risk of increased material tension to ensure freedom of movement. If a gusset is not inserted into it during manufacture, then it is likely that a patch will soon have to be sewn on this place.
The gusset is sewn into those places that are heavily loaded during movement. For example, this is the junction of the side seam and the sleeve (armhole) or the crotch in trousers. So that when walking the seam does not tear, init and insert a small piece of cloth. Also, the gusset is used in tights, children's rompers, men's underpants, etc. That is, in those places where the seam can tear when walking. The piece of cloth should be a small triangular, rectangular or diamond-shaped piece.
In modern fashion, the gusset performs not only a practical, but also a decorative function.
Pantyhose gusset
The gusset is widely used in the manufacture of underwear and tights. The presence of this small piece of fabric indicates not only the practicality, but also the high quality of the product. The gusset in tights is sewn into the crotch to ensure the strength of the product, greater width, freedom of movement. In synthetic tights, the cotton gusset improves hygiene by preventing odor.
The gusset in pantyhose also performs an antibacterial function and allows you to maintain women's he alth. A similar function is performed by a piece of fabric inserted into women's underwear made of synthetic materials.
Diamond gusset pattern
It is for the gusset that a separate pattern is not required. The place where it is necessary to put a piece of fabric of a certain shape is simply marked on the drawing. What in this case is a gusset? What it is? This is part of the pattern, and it is indicated in a certain way on paper. This piece of fabric is cut out separately from the main details of the product, while it is necessary to take into account allowancesat the seams on each side.
The gusset for the sleeve can consist of one or two parts. How are they different?
The one-piece gusset is a diamond-shaped flap of fabric. This piece of matter is inserted into the incision, specially left after grinding the side and axillary seam.
The gusset, consisting of two parts, consists of two pieces of fabric, one of which is sewn to the front and the other to the back of the product. The side and axillary seams in this case are ground down after the gusset is sewn on. It will be much easier to insert such a piece of fabric into the product.
Sleeve with one or two-piece gusset looks almost invisible, but at the same time it is much more comfortable to wear such clothes. How to sew a piece of fabric into a sleeve, consider below.
How to sew a gusset into a sleeve
The stitching of the gusset into the sleeve of the product is performed in the following sequence:
- Sew the side and underarm seams, leaving a small slit for the gusset.
- Place the gusset on the left incision from the inside out. Align the ends of the cut with its corners, connect all the seams along the allowance.
- You need to attach the seams alternately from one corner to another, each time turning the product towards you.
- Only after all the seams are stitched, you can remove the basting. Check that all seams on the front side are even, after which they can be removed. Iron the gusset on the right side of the product, then overcast the seams withinside out.
In a similar way, you can insert a piece of fabric into men's underpants with a gusset, stitching it to the two halves of the fabric along the seam line.