What does water smell like? Definitely fresh and cool. But still, something else … This is the melting ice floes of the Norwegian fjords, and the tropical lagoon that has absorbed the smell of exotic flowers, and the powerful gust of the ocean, and the peacefully murmuring fountain in the middle of the Calabrian garden. Thierry Wasser, the leading perfumer of the Guerlain fashion house, decided to create an allegory of water, which is called Aqua Allegoria. It appeared in the last year of the twentieth century. What does she represent? As the creator himself put it, water is the element of absolute freedom. And this is her main motto. The rest of the water can be very different. This was confirmed by Thierry Wasser, who released five fragrances for Jean-Paul Guerlain in one fell swoop. But that was only the beginning of the journey. The perfumer's "world tour" every spring is guaranteed to give fans of the house of Guerlain a new fragrance. We will consider this palette in our essay. Is this collection only suitable for connoisseurs of aquatic fragrances?Probably not. Life-giving water only creates a background, a mood. But in each fragrance unique notes are intertwined, inspired by nature itself. Packed in an original honeycomb-style bottle, this new concept of freshness offers a brand new eau de toilette every time, revealing the unexplored facets of aquatic lightness of being.
Main collection. Fresh herbs and their scent
As already mentioned, in 1999 five Guerlain Aqua Allegoria fragrances were released at once: Herba Fresca, Ylang and Vanilla, Rose Manifika, Pamplelune and Velor Lavender. Let's start our review with the first toilet water in the list. The name "Herba Fresco" can be translated as "freshly cut grass". Reviews add: early in the morning. When the newly risen sun had not yet had time to drink all the dew. How pleasant it is to walk barefoot on this soft grass and inhale its spicy smell! This is a relaxed fragrance that combines sophistication and freshness. Eau de toilette Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca is suitable for lovers of herbal and aquatic scents. It combines the coolness of morning dew, minty freshness, the brightness of citrus fruits and the aroma of wild flowers. The perfume composition opens with sour notes of lemon. A few pungent edges of the smell are softly bordered by pink clover. The heart of this fragrance is dominated by green tea and mint. And in a light, like a bride's veil, gentle lily of the valley and cyclamen are heard. Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca is an eau de toilette with which the dream of the modernhuman - harmonious dissolution in nature and unity with it.
New this year: "Calabrian Bergamot"
What is this fragrance? The Lombard city of Bergamo in northern Italy gave the world the flowers of the citrus plant, which is increasingly being used by perfumers in compositions that emphasize freshness. Have you tried the delicious Earl Gray tea? The drink also contains bergamot. But under the generous scorching sun of Calabria (southern Italy), these flowers received a new sound. This is a bright elixir. He seemed to have absorbed the southern sun, evokes the picking of peaches on a hot summer day, the fragrance of orchards. Citrus fruits have been repeatedly used in perfume compositions of the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria series: Mandarine Basilic (2007), "Grapefruit" (one of the fragrances of the first collection, 1999), "Fresh" and "Green Lemon" (2003 and 2014 respectively), "Amazing Orange" (2005). The scent pyramid of the new Calabrian Bergamot is dynamic and truly delightful. It is dominated, of course, by this orange blossom with sweetish notes, but so multifaceted! All shades of bergamot seem to shimmer in the rays of the Calabrian sun. The perfumer has flavored the eau de toilette with dewy herbs and warm spices. Reviews characterize "Bergamot Calabria" as a citrus-chypre fragrance. A small fraction of musk makes the eau de toilette in demand not only among connoisseurs of aquatic fragrances, but also sweet oriental perfumes. Therefore, it will suit lovers of both freshness and "stuffy night".
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic
This perfume composition appeared in the spring of 2007 with the light hand of Marie Salamagne. Many people still don't understand how a fresh, sweet and so energetic tangerine can be paired with spicy basil greens, which are often added to salads. However, this duet unexpectedly sounds very harmonious. In addition, reviews claim that in addition to mandarin and basil, a whole chorus of aromas is involved in the composition. Already in the overture, sensitive noses of users caught notes of orange blossom, bitter orange, green tea, ivy and sweet tangerine called "clementine". At the heart of the perfume composition, the duet of the main characters comes to the fore. But chamomile and peony sing along with him a little audibly. The base of this toilet water is like that of an expensive perfume. Feminine and deep notes of amber and sandalwood are heard in it. Eau de toilette Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic belongs to the class of fougere citrus fragrances. It was created exclusively for the warm season, when the body asks for coolness. The fragrance can and should be worn to work. Citrus fruits energize, perfume does not suffocate even in closed office spaces. The basil adds an interesting savory note to the sweetness of the tangerine. This is how beautiful and happy girls smell, enjoying every moment of life. Reviews note that the perfume is surprisingly long-lasting for the concentration of eau de toilette.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita
Last spring (2016), Thierry Wasser surprised fans of his talent with a brilliant and discouraging spontaneity. He mixed a juicy and sweet pear (Pera in French) with a thirst-quenching summer drink, Granita. Fruit cocktail came out surprisingly balanced. Pale pink liquid - the very quintessence of warm freshness. Eau de toilette will appeal not only to lovers of aquatic, but also sweet, fruity aromas. To describe the sound of a perfume, you must first explain what granite is. Ice is crushed into small crystals, fruit syrup is poured into this snow - in this case, a juicy green-yellow pear. The composition is framed by citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and grapefruit. They seem to enhance the sound of small granite ice floes. But the pear (in the company of apricot and osmanthus) gradually takes its toll and envelops everything with a velvet edging, creating the edges of the fragrance. A floral bouquet of hedione and orange blossom gently wedges into the fruity sound. The trail of Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita with notes of cedar seems to take us to the mossy carpet of the southern forest. In the base notes, chypre accords intertwine with white musk and the amazing smell of expensive leather.
Grapefruit
Eau de toilette Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune was part of the first collection in 1999. There is evidence that the fragrance was created by the master himself and the head of the fashion house, Jean-Paul Guerlain. But it could also be the perfumer Mathilde Laurent. The name "Grapefruit" is simple andconcise. But do not assume that the perfume composition is so poor that it consists of only this one ingredient. No, you can feel a whole grove of citrus fruits in this chorus. Bergamot beautifully borders the tartness of grapefruit. From the first notes, the fragrance seems to take you to a citrus garden at dawn. A huge sun rises and immediately warms the earth, scaring away the night shadows. Night rain still shimmers like pearl drops on the dark leaves of citrus trees. But gradually the sensual heart of the perfume composition is revealed. In it, blackcurrant leaves are harmoniously combined with neroli and petitgrain. A sharp start, an intimate heart and a surprisingly soft, warm and sweet finish - this is how users characterize this fragrance. The finish is vanilla and patchouli. Later, the sensual energy of "Grapefruit" was revealed in Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic. Reviews inform that this toilet water combines sharp and velvety notes, vibrating vitality and amazing peace. This first Aqua Allegory by Guerlain highlights the virtues of the grapefruit, while complementary ingredients enhance the feeling of freshness and aquatic depth.
Sunny Lily
As Aqua Allegoria Mandarine became a repetition and development of "Grapefruit", so Lys Soleia was created by Thierry Wasser in 2012 to remind fans of the fashion house about the first fragrance - "Ylang-Ylang and Vanilla". The composition belongs to the group of floral and fruity. The perfumer begins with a real whirlwind of morning freshness. Top notes vibrate with zestAmalfi lemon and bergamot, gradually giving way to crispy palm leaves. At the heart of the fragrance, as stated in the title, is a sunny yellow lily. Its pleasant, but rather pungent smell is softened by exotic ylang-ylang. Sweet and juicy tropical fruit notes are added to this floral bouquet. The fragrance has quite unexpected base notes. They sound exquisite tuberose, sweet musk and warm, as if homemade vanilla. This train seems to take us over the water surface of the turquoise lagoon to the warm sand of a snow-white beach, and the tropical sun touches our skin with rays. But the morning freshness remains. This perfume, reviews assure us, is designed to be worn during the summer holidays "on the southern shores."
Teazzurra
How wonderfully refreshing on a hot summer day is cold green tea with chamomile! Its unobtrusive light aroma was embodied in the perfume composition Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra from Guerlain. The fashion house could not stay away from the trend of creating unisex perfumes. And this fragrance is equally suitable for both women and men. Eau de toilette was released in 2015 by Thierry Wasser. Already one bottle with a transparent liquid and as if “fogged” with droplets evokes associations with such a long-awaited coolness. The bottle is crowned with a net in the form of golden honeycombs, branded for this line. The fragrance itself is classified as a fougere citrus. Indeed, the entire overture of the perfume composition is dedicated to grapefruit, lemon, bergamot and watery yuzu. At the heart of the fragrancedominated by green tea with chamomile. But as it should be for high-quality eau de toilette, a few more are added to the two main components - background ones. So, the delicious sound of tea and chamomile is complemented by white jasmine. The trail of the perfume is woven from sweet and soft threads of musk and vanilla, which are beautifully bordered by calone. Reviews assure that toilet water transfers its owner to a flowering Russian meadow. The fragrance is suitable for summer use by both sexes.
What does Green Lemon smell like
Limon Verde was created in 2014 by Thierry Wasser as a result of his trip to Brazil. Among the thirty-five “Allegories of Water”, the Caribbean lemon (or lime) occupies a key place. Citrus fruits are somehow present in most toilet waters of this line. In this respect, "Lemon" is a typical representative of its family. But this fragrance somehow subtly resembles Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita, although there is no pear in the list of ingredients. The fact is that the perfume composition was inspired by the Brazilian cocktail Caipirinha. But Vasser only took the "mood" of the caipirinha, and did not repeat it in the concentration of eau de toilette. Brazilian cocktail is made with lime, cachaça, ice and brown cane sugar. The perfume pyramid "Lemon Verde" uses slightly different ingredients. The composition opens with a powerful and fresh lime accord. Its slightly bitter smell awakens all sensitive receptors and allows us to fully enjoy the aromas of the "heart". And in it, along with green notes, tropical fruits are felt.and lots and lots of blue figs. All this is flavored with a pleasant smell of cane sugar. Tonka bean dominates the base of the fragrance. Eau de toilette is declared as unisex. But reviews say that this fragrance is too feminine, delicate, without the sharp edges of men's cologne. Eau de toilette gives a feeling of joyful freshness and lightness, like a morning in the tropics, when fog is still spreading over the jungle.
Dedicated to lovers of floral scents
From 2010 to 2012, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria series was released under the name "Bouquets". Let's look at them briefly and in order. Bouquet Numero 1 belongs to the floral green fragrances. The composition opens with bergamot, the energy of which is softened by herbal notes. Juicy summer fruits lurk in the heart of the pyramid. Users' noses picked up the presence of peach and apricot. But why is the toilet water called "Bouquet"? Yes, because after a moment they open up on the skin and fill all the white flowers with themselves. Reviews characterize "Bouquet No. 1" as eau de toilette, charming in its lightness. It evokes associations with swimming in a clear and clean river, with banks covered with green grass and white flowers. The light aroma of jasmine does not cause headaches and suffocation, it is only unobtrusively gentle. In 2011 Vasser released his new bouquet. Aqua Allegoria Bouquet Numero 2 is completely different from its older brother. It has neither green notes nor citrus fruits. The composition is classified as floral-fruity. Only three chords - cream rose, iris and lychee, but this does not seem to make eau de toiletteunpretentious. All components harmonize perfectly, creating the feeling of morning in the Garden of Eden. The name Bouquet de Mai is very apt. Vasser managed to capture all the flowering of lush May in a bottle with branded golden honeycombs. This eau de toilette for women is fragrant with a bouquet of white flowers, in which users have caught the scents of jasmine, lilac and lily of the valley. Notes of freshly cut grass and pink pepper give the composition an extraordinary sound. Grapefruit gives a feeling of freshness, purity and harmony.
Angelica and Lilac
The father of Aqua Allegoria Angelique Lilas released in 2007 was Jean-Paul Guerlain himself. Eau de toilette, reviews say, sounds as complicated and long-lasting as expensive perfumes. The perfume composition at first sounds simple and unobtrusive. In the top notes, a cheerful orange is felt, accompanied by jasmine and pink pepper. But the heart of this fragrance is charmingly floral. It compete (or happily cohabit?) angelica and lilac. They give sophistication and sensual sweetness of ylang-ylang. The base of the perfume is woven from deep basses of white Virginia cedar and heliotrope. Users note that from the very beginning it seems that the lilac overshadows the angel. But you need to give the aroma a chance to open up. After some time, a certain creaminess begins to be felt, the composition becomes perfectly balanced. This floral fragrance gives a feeling of well-groomed and cleanliness. The base notes make the eau de toilette related to the expensive perfumes of the Guerlain house.
Flora Neroli
Flora Nerolia Aqua Allegoria reviews are often called the bestcreation in the entire line of water allegories. The fragrance was created in the anniversary year 2000 by Jean-Paul Guerlain. This eau de toilette stands out from the line with at least one of its rich amber color. Neroli appears in the top notes of the perfume composition to stay with you for a long time. This snow-white flower also dominates the train. Orange blossom is added to it, giving the whole composition a feeling of girlish innocence and tenderness. Petitgrain gives perfumes a pleasant bitterness and astringency. Jasmine is also felt in the heart notes. The persistence of toilet water is simply amazing and is not inferior to real perfumes. The fragrance gives an explosion of spring happiness, nirvana from drowning in white fragrant flowers.
Gentiana
This fragrance from 2001 anticipated fifteen years later Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Granita Pera Eau de Toilette. Juicy pear also dominates the Gentiana perfume composition. But the feeling of freshness here is created not by a granite cocktail, crushed to the smallest crystals of ice, but by a grated citrus peel. They open the composition. The zest of bergamot, grapefruit, lime and orange gives a boost of vigor to our smelling receptors with its astringency. In the heart of the fragrance, pear and gentian peacefully coexist (aka tyrlich, but the scientific name is dzhentiana). This bright piercing blue flower appears in the mountains in early April. Its tart sweetness gives the pear its powdery undertones. The trail of the fragrance is woven from white musk and sandalwood. In general, the composition is so balanced, elegant and sophisticated that you want to wear perfume even at home - just to liftmood.
Laurel and licorice
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Laurier - Reglisse is an amazing fragrance for women, unlike any other "allegory of water". A whole creative team of perfumers worked on its creation in 2008: Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, Marie Salamagne and Silvana Delacourt. This fragrance can be attributed to the green fougere. In the top notes, citrus fruits are clearly felt, especially bergamot surrounded by orange blossom. Regliss is one of the names for licorice. In Slavic languages, this plant is called licorice. It seems that the combination of licorice, from the root of which desserts are prepared, and laurel, seasoning for soups, cannot be used to create perfumes. But one drop of perfume completely dispels all doubts. The laurel at the heart of the composition is not a dry leaf, but a fresh one, with an oily surface on which dew drops tremble. And licorice gives it a tart bitterness. The amber base contains modest spring violet, noble galbanum and delicate neroli. A green wine glass charges with positive and is permeated with sunlight. This fragrance can be worn not only in summer, but also in spring and autumn.
Feedback about the "Aqua Allegory" line
Each Guerlain Aqua Allegoria fragrance is called unique and inimitable. There are also fruity (for example, Tutti Kiwi) flavors in this line. Connoisseurs of flower bouquets are not particularly limited in their choice. There are as many as three fragrances in which the rose dominates (Blanca, Manifika and Pop). But thanks to the accompanying components, the “queen of flowers” acquires a new and unique sound every time. For connoisseurs of the exoticrecommend "Tiare-Mimosa" and "Ylang-Vanilla". All fragrances of the line are good to wear in the warm season. But Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice eau de toilette is also suitable for winter.
