Classic shoes are the basis of the wardrobe, they can say much more about a man than any other item of clothing. Now fashion is not as strict as it used to be, and boots for a formal suit may not be boring at all. Universal models have also appeared that are equally good both in the office and at informal events. Today we will talk about the top three men's shoes - brogues, oxfords, derbies. The difference between these models for the inexperienced is practically not noticeable, but meanwhile it exists.
An all-time classic
There are many epithets that can be used with regard to oxfords, but always with the prefix most: the most classic, the most stylish, the most strict, the most traditional and businesslike. Refined style and strict etiquette are associated with many people in England. That's right, because the ancestors of Oxfords first came into fashion there. Themthe progenitors are balmorals (photo below), named after the Scottish castle Balmoral. In turn, their predecessors were Oxford boots, popular in 1800 in the oldest European educational institution, after which they got their name.
In the US, balmorals and oxfords are synonymous, while in the UK, the former are considered a variation of the latter due to the missing stitching on the boot welt.
Derby
Derby shoes are less formal. They are considered a universal shoe model. In England they are often referred to as "bluechers". The shoes got their name, according to one version, in honor of Marshal Blucher from Prussia, who, along with his army, participated in the Battle of Waterloo. The military, according to legend, wore the original boots with open lacing, which, in all likelihood, were later transformed into shoes.
What is brogging
It's easy to get confused by the variety of shoe models. Having started a conversation about the difference between derbies, oxfords and brogues, one interesting detail should be mentioned. Brogues are perforated. The process of applying a pattern by perforating holes of various sizes is called broaching. It can be carried out both at the derby and at the oxfords.
Punching holes in shoes was deliberately started in the 17th century by Irish cattle farmers. The main function of brogging then is the removal of water from the foot and its rapid airing. Gradually, the model became popular with foresters and rangers, and then with the aristocracy. At this time, the appearance of modern brogues was formed. Comfort, practicality and versatility - these three qualities contributed to the popularization of shoes.
Thus, the difference between oxfords and brogues, derbies and brogues lies in the small perforations on the heel and toe. In fact, they are not a separate style of shoes, they are just a way to decorate them.
Types of brogues
Over time, the need for through perforation has disappeared and the punctures have become decorative. They are applied in the form of an openwork pattern on the surface of the shoes. Depending on the technique, there are three types:
- Full brogues. In this case, the entire surface of the shoe is perforated.
- Semi-brogues. Small punctures are present only on the detachable toe and are grouped into a specific pattern.
- Quarter brogues. Perforation is present only along the seams.
Derby, brogues and oxfords: the difference in appearance
Oxfords are characterized by closed lacing. The vamp (front part of the boot) is sewn over the berets (side parts) tied with lacing.
In the case of the derby, the opposite is true. The lacing of this type of footwear is open, the berets are sewn over the vamp. Therefore, the sidewalls flare freely to the sides when the laces are untied.
Initially, both types of shoes were characteristic exclusively for men's wardrobe. However, in the 20s of the last century, the first women's oxfords and brogues appeared. There is practically no difference between the male and female model. Unless the latter are released in the verya variety of colors. In Russia, the craze for oxfords among women was observed in 2010.
What to wear with derbies, brogues and oxfords
Many don't know that in the case of derbies, brogues and oxfords, the differences also apply to wearing rules. Not all models are equally good with a classic suit and jeans. There are certain requirements, and it would be useful to take them into account.
The most classic and strict model is oxfords. Black shoes without perforations and decorative elements are worn with a formal suit or tuxedo, tailcoat. Made of brown leather, perfect for everyday wear. Women, on the other hand, can wear oxfords anytime and with anything.
Derby can be called the opposite of Oxfords. The shoes are versatile. Models in black and brown will suit strict business suits. Derbies made of soft leather, with colored inserts, in a bright color, perfectly complement jeans or cotton chinos. Red leather shoes are very popular. Such derbies add brightness and originality to the image. Their destiny is an informal style of clothing: slacks, jeans.
Derby is where you can buy one pair and pair it safely with everything in your wardrobe. True, preference should be given to the least pretentious monophonic models. This is the difference between derbies and oxfords.
Brogues occupy an intermediate position. As already mentioned, perforations can be applied to both oxfords and derbies. It should be remembered that such decor on shoes immediatelylowers the degree of its officiality. Stylists do not recommend wearing brogues with formal suits. They are most harmoniously combined with tweed or woolen suits, casual style jackets.
Oxfords, derbies and brogues are not recommended to be worn with tight and tightly fitting trousers and jeans. This combination will upset the balance and harmony, the legs will look disproportionately large.
How much do men's oxfords and brogues cost
The difference in price is determined by two factors: the material and the brand. Classic oxfords have always been sewn from high-quality smooth leather. However, times are changing. Now you can find on sale models of patent leather, suede, leatherette or a combination of materials. The classic color of the model is dark brown and black. Classic models can be found at longtime shoe companies: Crockett & Jones, Santoni, Edward Green, Cheaney, Wolverine and Barrett. Be prepared for the fact that you will have to pay well for the products of elite brands. The price of oxfords (pictured) from Crockett & Jones starts from 395 euros.
Of course, in mass markets it is more democratic. Genuine leather shoes cost from three to four thousand rubles.
Between derby, brogues and oxfords, there is practically no difference in price depending on the model. Classics are always more expensive, but not by much. Quite often you can observe how much the cost of a thing changes depending on fashion trends. However, this is not the case, classic oxfords, derbies and brogues are always in demand. For example, BritishNEXT offers its customers all models at a price of four to five thousand rubles.
