Historical events, politics and economics are the real factors in the development of fashion. Not designers and personal preferences determine how modern fashionistas will look, but history. A vivid example was the fashion of the 40s, when the lack of fabrics, the decrease in the work of light industry and the threat to the life of mankind pushed fashion back to the very last rows. However, today such outfits are considered one of the most sophisticated, as if symbolizing the femininity that the fair sex, who lived in that difficult era, preserved. Why are practical outfits that have become part of the fashion history of the 40s so attractive?
Fashion and history
The defining event in all spheres of life in 1940-1946 was World War II. It radically changed people all over the world, influenced their way of life, and, accordingly, fashion and attitude towards it. In this era, it was not the beauty of clothing that was important, but the urgent need forpracticality and minimalism. It was at this time that the consumption of fabrics for manufactured clothes was deliberately reduced. Details are thought out that will help to act quickly and practically in any situation. The war pushed designers to new lines and silhouettes: pencil skirts, small hats, later giving way to even thinner scarves, as much as possible in keeping with the spirit of the times.
Innovations
Having learned about the declaration of war, many leading designers created models that fit the lifestyle of ordinary people. There were sewn coats with hoods and pajamas "for shelters", comfortable low-speed shoes, voluminous bags in which you could carry everything you need, including gas masks. Instead of leather, shoes are now made from straw, felt, hemp, leatherette, cellophane and wood details. It was these components, created at that difficult time, that determined the features of the fashion history of the 40s of the XX century.
Fashion inventions of the era
One of the most popular and revolutionary materials created during that period was nylon. At first, stockings were created from it, and later underwear. Its wide distribution was facilitated by the shortage of strong natural fabrics, since such materials of light industry were used on a large scale for the needs of the front.
Since 1939, a ban was introduced on the use of silk, leather and cotton in non-military needs. Natural fabrics were used to make parachute fabric, maps, and bullet and shell cases. Women's clothing was now produced in smallquantities, and also distinguished by minimalism, it was sewn without the usual frills and decorative ornaments for previous eras.
The fashion and style of 1940-1946 was marked by the fact that due to the political and economic situation in the world, the roles of trendsetters were replayed. After the capture of Paris by the Nazi army, some designers emigrated to the United States, someone closed their boutiques and stopped working. One of those who left the fashion industry was the great couturier Coco Chanel.
Despite the fact that many designers refused to work in the new conditions, some fashion houses remained open. Lanvin, Balmain, Balenciaga, Rochas, Nina Ricci and many others were now supposed to celebrate German beauty according to Hitler's plans.
The style of the 40s under the influence of Nazi Germany has changed markedly. The ideal of female beauty now became a larger figure, athletic women who could take on their shoulders not only housework and raising children, but also hard work for the good of their country. Peasant and medieval German motifs appeared, straw hats, broad shoulders in jackets and dresses, etc.
The impact of scarcity on fashion
In conditions of scarcity of fabrics and the re-profiling of the production of excesses, almost no one could afford. People began to be provided with coupons for clothes, with which you can get only the necessary things in one or two copies: a coat, a pair of boots, two or three changes of underwear, a sweater, a skirt, a blouse, and so on. Everything was issued at the minimumnecessary.
It was from the fashion of the 40s that second-hand shops and handmade clothing stores that became widespread in wartime began to appear. New types of homemade patchwork dresses appeared, which were new models sewn from worn out old things.
In the face of austerity, women are starting to get rid of unnecessary purchases of constantly deteriorating wardrobe items. Now no one wore stockings, which were increasingly difficult to get, but very easy to tear. Women began to shave their legs and draw a neat thin black arrow along the length of the entire leg. Fashion magazines offered unique "recipes" for creating jewelry from bottle caps and corks.
Style features
The two main components of the fashion of the 40s were sports style and military. Came in khaki. Apart from it, rather simple colors were used, almost without patterns: black, blue, gray, which could sometimes be used in a variation of a polka dot print or a small flower.
It was very difficult to find shoes in general, the industry offered leatherette shoes and shoes with wooden blocks and soles. But even such models were in huge shortage.
Knitted items and accessories, large pockets began to spread. Hats were rapidly decreasing. Hats gave way to scarves and kerchiefs, thin berets. Shyness faded into the background, now everyone thought about practicality.
Cosmetics almost disappearedfrom the shelves, women not only thought about makeup less and less, but also could not get even the most ordinary things, such as lipstick or blush. The United States, not involved in the war, could afford excesses in the fashion elements of the time. And also in this country they began to produce powder and lipstick of various bright colors.
Role reversal
The German-occupied former fashion capital of the world was now subject to German fashion trends. In this regard, Paris ceased to occupy an unconditional position as a trendsetter. Its economic decline, mass emigration of beauty professionals and declining interest in trends meant that the power of American style began to grow. Now it was up to them to create their own fashion industry. The greatest interest was given to everyday practical outfits.
Signatures of the fashionable side of the American way of life have been created: casual Californian style, business New York attire lines and new details of functional varsity suit. Bold steps were taken by American designers towards a casual, practical and functional style. The legendary wool jersey was created, as well as tracksuits made from natural fabrics. The USA celebrated everyday life, the value of every day, and the beauty of functional, comfortable clothing.
After the war
While France and all of Europe were moving away from the long stagnation caused by the war, the United States began to develop its fashion industry with all its strength and vigor. American designers have made active contributions topost-war fashion, with a particular focus on sports and leisure clothing. The real boom fell on the bikini swimsuit, which broke all records of courage in front of an open body and its beauty. The swimsuit was named after the atoll in the US where the atomic bomb was first tested.
However, America did not reign supreme for long. Already in 1947, Christian Dior appeared, who breathed a fresh dose of elegance and sophistication into the post-war world. He became the most popular designer of the 40s and 50s, creating his new look collection.
In modern fashion
Retro style of the 40s with asceticism and at the same time femininity remains a shining example of elegance. The lines and silhouettes of the outfits of that time are emphatically simple, but extremely refined and practical. A minimum of fabrics is used, however, all elements of clothing are thin and airy. Plunging necklines, graceful lines of pencil skirts, simple buttons on jackets, thin straps that accentuate the waistline and elegance - all these are the details of the fashion of the military era.
1940s style became a trend that repeated lines and patterns in the collections of many famous designers in the fall/winter 2009-2010 and 2011-2012 seasons. Gucci, Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier, Donna Karan turned to elegance, which sought to emphasize the fragility of the weaker sex. Spring/Summer 2013 saw a resurgence of 1940s fashion with a reappearance of straight lines and silhouettes, high collar shirts and jackets, elongated pencil skirts and functional shirt dresses.
