Patchouli has been undeservedly forgotten until recently. They were associated with the cheap, harsh, out-of-balance, often synthetic-based perfumes that were all the rage in the 'crimplene' 70s. Patchouli oil was still used in aromatherapy, but no more.
However, this note sometimes slipped into the bestsellers of the perfume world. Suffice it to recall Patchouli Patch, Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli, Dark Passage from Tablo de Parfums, or simply Patchouli from Molinara. By the way, this note, a little conspiratorial, is also present in the famous Coromandel perfume from Chanel.
Of course, the famous American designer and director Tom Ford could not stay away from attempts to resurrect the good name of patchouli, and created his perfumery work on the theme of Indian incense. What is this fragrance?
Does it remind you of the democratic spirits of the 70s of the last century, or does it have a different message? In this article, we will analyze reviews of "White Patchouli" from "Tom Ford".
Indian plant magic
This fragrance belongs to the group of patchouli, chypre, white flowers - this is a brief description of the perfume.
But what does it all mean? If white flowers can still be associated with freshness and fragrantness, if we know something about chypre, then patchouli remains an incomprehensible aroma for a European.
But this plant (more precisely, a bush) was known to the ancient Tamils from time immemorial. The very name "patcha + ellai" means "green leaf" in Dravidian.
In the homeland of the plant, and throughout South Asia, its oil was used in perfumery and folk medicine. In Europe, patchouli became famous thanks to Napoleon. But then the fragrance was half-forgotten, until in 1960-1970. interest in him was not revived in the wake of the hippie movement.
Before this, patchouli was clearly associated with India. Hippies, having mastered the beaches of Goa, brought to Europe the fashion for everything bright, tropical, sharp, without halftones. Twenty years of interest in patchouli did not disappear.
The fashion for this fragrance eventually led to its rejection: manufacturers began to use synthetic material. Cheap eau de toilette with a sharp patchouli scent began to be sold everywhere. But they used to be synonymous with refined luxury in the style of Belle Epoque!
Therefore, perfume for women "White Patchouli" from "Tom Ford" and are a challenge to our time. How did users react to this demarche?
Original patchouli - what is it?
Since the 60sof the last century, the fragrant bush began to be cultivated in other areas with a suitable hot climate - in Africa, Latin America, and the Philippines. The plant Pogostemon of the Lamiaceae family (that is its scientific name) certainly took root there.
But just as Chardonnay vines in French Champagne and the Ukrainian Odessa region produce completely different wines, patchouli leaves in their new homeland smell completely different from those in India or Sri Lanka. The process of harvesting, drying and fermenting has a great influence on the aroma of the oil.
With the wrong technology, patchouli has a sharp, too heady, "simple" aroma. But if you use only three or four top leaves of a young shoot of a bush, as for a Tom Ford perfume, follow all the subtleties of the ancient oil production process, then the fragrance of the plant will surprise you inexpressibly.
Parfumers describe patchouli as herbaceous, slightly earthy, with a "green heart and woody soul". Plant absolute is a dark green precious liquid with a sweet grassy character and balsamic notes.
Interestingly, patchouli, like fine wine, only gets better with age. In aged oil, bewitching fruity nuances become audible, and its aroma is full-bodied, rounded, balanced.
"Tom Ford", "White Patchouli": description of the fragrance by the manufacturer
In 2006, the design house invited renowned perfumer Zivodan to create an oriental composition called Black Orchid. The second work of the master, compiled for "Tom Ford", appeared two yearslater.
The fragrances cannot be called paired, but the family resemblance can still be traced in them - at least in corrugated glass bottles. Both perfumes can be described as retro perfumes.
The compositions evoke memories of the brilliant salons of high-society lionesses of the last century. In Black Orchid, the dominant flower is surrounded by fresh citrus, jasmine, gardenia, truffle and ylang-ylang on a base of warm notes of sandalwood and chocolate.
The composition of White Patchouli Tom Ford perfume opens with peony and coriander accords. Top notes are mixed with white flowers and bergamot, which modern perfumes rarely do without.
At the heart of the composition, rose and jasmine manifest themselves in all their glory, with ambrette in the background. The green oil of the Indian bush appears only in the base.
But it sounds so long, powerful and sophisticated at the same time, that it becomes clear why patchouli gave the name to the perfume. Along with them, warm dry wood and incense are felt in the lower notes of the plume.
Description of fragrance by users
In reviews of "White Patchouli" from "Tom Ford", users paint a completely different picture of the perfume pyramid. At its tip, buyers assure, there is a dominant plant that gave the name to women's perfumes.
Patchouli, in their opinion, sounds from the overture itself to a long trail. In the top notes, the ladies saw coriander and (not declared by the manufacturer) pink pepper. This combination of patchouli and spices looks bewitching.
Warm and sweetnotes balance fresh white flowers. The heart of "White Patchouli" fragrance by "Tom Ford" in the reviews is characterized as peony-bergamot.
The fragrances of ambrette, incense and woody notes are added to the main duet. But in the database, where patchouli again plays the leading part, users see a rose and a jasmine.
Tom Ford, White Patchouli bottle description
The author of the composition Zhivodan refers us to his early perfume creation "Black Orchid", which he created for the design house. It becomes clear why the patchouli in this perfume is called white.
In India and Ceylon, the pogostemon bush produces just such flowers with a pinkish pearly sheen. And although only the leaves of the plant are used in perfumery, the author considered it not superfluous to indicate the origin of the essential oil.
The basis of the perfume is not a synthetic material, but a precious elixir collected from the top four shoots of the bush. The original "White Patchouli" from "Tom Ford" is enclosed in a snow-white bottle of opaque corrugated glass.
The perfume bottle is wider and squat than the Black Orchid, which only emphasizes the femininity of the liquid poured into it. On its snow-white surface, a small cream label with the name flaunts.
Everything is made in the spirit of minimalism, which brings retro perfumes closer to modernity, making them more relevant.
For whom the perfume is made
"White Patchouli" from"Tom Ford" is a perfume for true ladies who have not yet died out in our hectic age of unisex and democratic cut clothes. Manufacturer and buyers agree on this opinion.
This smell of breed, nobility and we alth, which is not boastful, but exists "for itself." The fragrance suits both young and mature ladies. The main thing is that the hostess of the perfume matches this type of woman.
Sweet notes of flowers and enigmatic patchouli stand out from the crowd. And a woman needs to be ready to meet the eyes of outsiders. The sillage of the perfume water is long, exciting, but sonorous and fresh, like a breath of a summer breeze.
On the skin, the perfume reveals itself gradually, note by note, but patchouli, according to users, sounds from beginning to end. The lady who wears the fragrance is not pretentious, not catchy, but charming with her noble, silvery coldness. Earthy and woody notes give it a little sensual warmth - but within the bounds of decency.
When and what to wear
Perfume "Tom Ford" "White Patchouli" - ageless. But ladies are most recommended to wear them during the day. White Patchouli does not have the glamor and chic that is expected in perfumes for an evening out.
But for work in the office or for a walk around the city, they are exactly what the discerning lady needs with sophisticated manners and innate elegance. The ideal time of year for perfume is the off-season.
In the cold, a sonorous, to an icy crunch, jasmine is more manifested. In the heat of summer, patchouli can sound a little moresweeter than you want. What clothes goes with this perfume? Not with a T-shirt and jeans!
This perfume has something of the "blue blood", so the clothes should be appropriate - an elegant office suit or a feminine dress.
How the fragrance wears
As for the durability of Tom Ford's White Patchouli eau de parfum, the reviews are unanimous: it corresponds to the declared concentration, even more. Perfume stays on the skin for 12 hours, and on clothes for several days.
The train is decent, for others it is fresh, white-flowered, and for the hostess it is cozy, warm, smelling of wood heated in the sun.
Reviews
Women's perfume White Patchouli Tom Ford was described by users as an unconditionally expensive, noble fragrance. It is revealed gradually, playing with facets and nuances. Everything in it is balanced: the severity and coldness of jasmine and white flowers are softened by the warm warmth, roundness and sweetness of patchouli.
This perfume is not at all unisex, despite the notes of bergamot and spices in the overture. The perfume will surely appeal to lovers of luxurious oriental fragrances, although fans of European classics will also be delighted with them.
