Every day, talented perfumers around the world discover the most unexpected combinations of notes in perfume. At first glance, it may seem that the work of a perfumer is done on a whim, without any foundation under it, but this is not at all the case. Back in the 1990s, a special classification of odors was developed in France, within which groups of aromas with detailed descriptions appeared.
Old classification of basic fragrances
The original list of fragrances consisted of seven groups:
- oriental (amber),
- forest,
- chypre,
- floral,
- leather,
- fern,
- citrus.
At present, it has been possible to expand the primary classification through the use of the latest technologies. Perfumers discovered new families of perfumes by notes and conducted a series of experiments to combine the fragrances of existing groups.
Modern classification of basic fragrances
Today, experts offer a choice of as many as 16 types of perfume notes. Of course,these types are not often used in their pure form, perfumes presented on store shelves are usually a combination of several categories of smells at once, skillfully mixed by professionals.
The predominance of certain notes in perfumes allows them to be assigned to a certain category by age, gender or purpose. Many people have several used perfumes at once, each suitable for a particular event or life situation.
Fragrance Pyramid
Every perfume on the market necessarily includes three types of notes: base, heart and top. Their main difference lies in the use of oils with different rates of volatilization of molecules. The combination of three notes or "musical chord" perfumers call the correct olfactory or olfactory harmony.
The base notes of perfumes are "heavier" than others and can stay on the body for up to 24 hours. They are also called plume notes. Such notes appear later than others, but they create the basis for saturation of the composition, revealing all the richness of aromas. The first smells of the base notes are noticeable approximately 30 minutes after the application of the perfume.
Heart notes or middle notes in the composition appear between the base and top notes after a few minutes. In combination with the top notes, they create a special "character" of the perfume, which distinguishes them from a number of others. Usually such soft and rounded aromas are called love notes in perfumes.
Top notes are extremely important as they are felt instantly after perfume application. Live less than other notes - from 10 to 20minutes. They are pure volatile oils.
Following the pyramid principle
Currently, the technologies of the chemical industry have done their job, and now the principle of building a composition according to the aroma pyramid is not mandatory. Not all perfumers break the composition strictly into three steps of the pyramid; there are many transitional oils. Absolutely all the qualities of the perfume at the output will depend on the proportions and what notes in the perfume the master used.
As an example, you can specify the popular perfume "Molecule", consisting of only one note. But this is rather an exception, the presence of several notes in perfumes remains the standard. In other cases, perfumes are made up of such an unthinkable number of different notes that dividing them into three steps of the pyramid of aromas seems to be a rather non-trivial task.
However, a combination of notes is still recognized as a classic, in which uniformity creates the quality of the resulting composition, its uniqueness and durability, among others.
Types of fragrances by concentration
Until now, when choosing, some are wondering what is the difference between eau de toilette and cologne or perfume. There are 4 types of perfumes depending on the concentration of fragrances:
- Actually, spirits. They have the highest concentration of about 20-30% and are used in the evening. Application Areas: Temples, behind the ear and wrists.
- Perfume hasconcentration of 14-25% and applied during the day on the body and clothes 2 to 3 times. Longevity is approximately 4-5 hours.
- Toilet water with a concentration of 10-20% is used in the morning and on weekends. Generally not applied to the skin, only to clothes.
- Cologne is the lightest fragrance and is applied in the morning. Can be used by men after shaving.
Common mistakes when choosing perfumes by notes
It is often said that the fragrance suitable for a person ceases to be felt after a short time. This is a delusion, since the body simply protects a person from overly tiring odors by blocking their recognition by the olfactory system.
A trip to the store should be planned in the morning, while the olfactory system has not yet overworked. One visit to the perfume shop allows you to experience up to three fragrances, among which only one is applied to the wrist (the rest - only on a test paper).
Experienced perfumers also do not recommend rubbing the place of application of the fragrance. You need to let the fragrance spread itself, then after 15-25 minutes you can hear the full composition of the perfume.
Selection of fragrances for adults
Ambery or oriental notes are ideal for a mature lady in a beautiful evening dress. You can choose from Christian Dior - Poison, Yves Saint Laurent - Opium, Lancome - Magie Noire or Boadicea The Victorious - Joyous.
Wood notes are predominantly made for men. Suitable for any occasion and eventthe best choice for self-confident men over thirty. Recommended line of British perfume English Laundry - Arrogant.
Leather fragrances are considered quite rare in modern perfumery. They also go well with the image of a purposeful middle-aged man or an independent strong-willed woman. Argentine perfume Bayres Hombre by La Martina stands apart in this category.
Besides, confident ladies will not be superfluous to take a closer look at musky perfumes, originally extracted from the glands of animals, for which they served as a means of attracting the attention of the opposite sex. Now such notes are created artificially or from plants. Representatives of Montale are well aware of this and offer fans a unique perfume Musk to Musk.
Universal spicy notes will appeal to both men and women over thirty. The first is to choose fragrances with woody notes, and the second - combinations with floral or oriental.
Sweet, sweet, desire-inducing gourmand notes are designed for adults and experienced women who often combine them with oriental and floral scents. Figure: Cerise by Roxana Illuminated Perfume is the gourmand reference.
The solidity of a male businessman is the best way to show chypre notes, which are the basis of many compositions. It is also found in women's perfumes, for example, the well-known Miss Dior by Christian Dior.
Fragrance choice for young people
Water or marine notesappeared only 25 years ago and are the best fit for energetic youth due to their freshness and invigorating aromas. Davidoff - Cool Watero is worth a look.
Ozone fragrances are a relatively new category, addressed primarily to young people of both sexes. A good representative is the French perfume S. T. Dupont - Essence Pure Homme.
For those who lead an active lifestyle and travel a lot, it would not be superfluous to pay attention to products with the so-called fougere or fern notes. A high-quality perfume in this category is UOMO-Madera Marina from the Italian company Bottega Verde.
Light herbal and green fragrances are best for girls and young people under 25. Such perfume notes can include citrus fruits, trees and moss. Interesting in this category is the slightly bitter aroma of freshly cut grass, which gives a unique charm of true youth. Elizabeth Arden Americans recommend Green Tea Intense.
For active youth, perfume notes can be completely different, but almost always, among other aromas, there are fresh and cheerful notes of citrus. For daily use, the Colonia Assoluta citrus perfume product line from the Italians from Acqua di Parma will be a good choice.
Universal fragrances for everyone
Flower notes have always rightfully been considered the most common and sought after by all genders and ages. What other notes in perfume can simultaneously emphasize the freshness and density of the mainfragrance for men and unique femininity and unique image for women?
Fruit fragrances usually become the choice of the fair sex of all ages, but are sometimes used in purely masculine compositions. They are made up of both notes of one fruit, and from the smells of several at once.
There are also so-called exotic fragrances, which mostly belong to the fruity or floral notes of the composition. They are singled out in a separate category for marketing reasons. The choice of bright outstanding ladies is often Annick Goutal perfume - Folavril.
Aldehydic fragrances should be singled out as a separate category, as they are purely synthetic in nature. Thanks to this factor, you can mix absolutely any smells. Such production is much simpler and cheaper than natural extraction of aromas.
Practical tips for choosing, applying and storing perfume
Experts advise using samplers to "wear" the composition you like for one day and find out exactly if it fits. It is better to apply the probe on the wrist area. You should not determine the fragrance on another person, you should test it on yourself.
From the tips for use, we can distinguish that perfume is usually applied to “warm zones” or zones with pulsation: neck, places behind the ears, temples, places where the arms and legs are bent. Light spraying of hair and areas under clothing is approved.
For a morning trip to work in transport and an evening date, absolutelydifferent intensities of perfume: in the morning, lighter eau de toilette is perfect, and in the evening you can use eau de parfum or perfume with the highest concentration.
Many people mistakenly believe that perfume is durable. This is not entirely true, experts insist that you should not buy several different bottles in large volumes. In any case, the correct storage conditions include a dark and cool place, tightly closed vial (it is also recommended to use the packaging). Such conditions will allow to preserve all the properties of the composition for a long time.
A review of the main mistakes and tips for choosing, combined with a description of perfume notes, is designed to help everyone more thoroughly approach the choice of the right fragrance and remain satisfied with their own choice.
