The scent of a perfume is a "song" made up of notes. But the gamma does not represent 7 musical signs, but various variations of aromas. In the description of perfumes, a "pyramid" always appears, which displays the aromatic composition of perfumery. What are the smells? What place do they occupy in the "pyramid" and how do they affect the persistence of the smell?
What is a fragrance note
No matter what perfume smells, they all have a certain persistence. This durability is determined by the essential oils that make up the perfume. A fragrance note is an indicator of the volatility of essential oils, the rate of its evaporation.
Many have noticed that there are perfumes that exude fragrance for only a few hours, or even less. And there are those whose fragrance lasts 2-3 days.
This duration depends on the fact that the ether is a multicomponent substance consisting of 120-500 components. And each component also has its own volatility. And since the concentration of such substances in the essential oildifferent, then the volatility of the ether is different.
In modern perfumery, a whole "notation" of smells has already been developed. It contains aromas in a certain sequence, the so-called scale. Like the construction of musical chords, fragrant compositions are also built - adhering to a certain sequence and necessarily making up a harmonious "sound".
Bottom note essential oils
What are the smells of perfume for men and for women? Persistent and fast evaporating. And if you were lucky enough to become the owner of an incredibly persistent perfume (several days), then they contain essential oils of the lower notes.
They can be compared to basses in an orchestra, whose function in a musical composition is to hold it. The bottom notes are the last to open, creating that same fragrant trail. They also slow down the evaporation of odors with rapid volatility.
Bottom note essential oils include:
- patchouli;
- fennel;
- incense;
- carnation;
- fir;
- basil;
- rosewood;
- juniper;
- tea tree.
As a rule, they are colored in a dark shade and have a thick consistency. By themselves, they have a pungent smell, rich, some even cloying. And if an oil drop of this note falls on paper, it will not evaporate and will not lose its aroma for several weeks. Therefore, in perfumed products (perfume, eau de toilette, etc.), the concentration of essentialoils of the lower note is small - about 5%. But this is enough for flavor.
Middle note essential oils
It is the essential oils of the middle notes that determine what perfume smells for women and men are. They are the basis of spirits. The entire aromatic composition is built on them, but they appear only after the first notes, which quickly evaporate.
Middle note essential oils include:
- geranium;
- jasmine;
- rose;
- neroli;
- ylang-ylang;
- lavender;
- sage.
In the composition of aromatic products, essential oils of middle notes make up from 40 to 80% of the total composition. Such substances are extracted from flowers and green parts of plants.
If you conduct an experiment and drop a drop of such oil on paper, it will evaporate in a few hours, and some in a day or two. But in a perfume, they last only a few hours.
In addition, some middle note oils are powerful aphrodisiacs that arouse sexual desire in the opposite sex. But other oils, on the contrary, have a calming and relaxing effect.
Top note essential oils
Such substances contain substances with a high degree of volatility. That is, the essential oils of the top note will evaporate very quickly. But they are the introduction to the aromatic composition, it is them that the buyer "hears" in the first place when choosing a perfume.
Top essential oils include:
- lemon;
- orange;
- mint;
- melissa;
- rosemary;
- eucalyptus;
- thyme.
In the composition of perfumes, the first notes make up only 10-15% of the total composition.
In perfume, the fragrance of the first notes lasts only a few minutes, the maximum is an hour. And in the experiment with a drop of oil and paper, the first one evaporates in a few hours.
Besides perfumery, essential oils from the top of the "pyramid" are used in aromatherapy:
- inhalation;
- bath;
- aroma lamp.
Fragrance Classification
In various classification systems, there are 20-30 categories of fragrances. But such a division should not be taken on faith, since this opinion is subjective. Indeed, one perfumer can "hear" several fragrances as one, and another perfumer can capture several "shades" in one smell.
But one thing is for sure - all fragrances can be classified into several categories, which will determine something in common, similar in them. Yes, and there are several classifications.
Next, we present simpler and more well-known categories of what smells (types) are.
Floral
Floral fragrances are those in which the smells of flowers predominate: one or a whole bouquet. These fragrances can be exclusively floral, but more often than not, flower scents are "spiced up" with additional citrus or woody notes. It is also the largest category of fragrances.
However, comparing identical perfumes with a similar composition of smells, neverthelessit is impossible not to notice their difference. The thing is that the same floral fragrance is perceived differently by different perfumers. Yes, and the number of identical components may differ in two types of analogues.
Additionally, floral fragrances may differ in characteristics. Perfume can be:
- cool;
- dry;
- lyrical;
- soft;
- bright;
- temperamental;
- calm;
- sentimental;
- saturated;
- subtle;
- sad etc.
And the nature of the perfume is a reflection of the mood in which the perfumer was at the time of their creation.
Examples of basic floral notes:
- rose;
- iris;
- jasmine;
- peony;
- tuberose;
- lily of the valley;
- violet.
Oriental
What are the smells of perfume? Characteristics are the first thing that reflects their differences. One of these characteristics is the oriental style. Oriental fragrances cannot be confused with anything, they are not lost "in the crowd" of smells that make up the perfume composition.
Oriental fragrances are:
- brightness;
- sensuality;
- sexy;
- spice;
- sweetness;
- saturation.
Most oriental perfumes are powerful aphrodisiacs that enhance their appeal when in contact with the skin.
But oriental perfumes for girls are scents combined with floraland fougere notes.
Smells of the East are:
- exotic ambergris;
- patchouli;
- sandal;
- cistus;
- vanilla.
Aromas of the East in perfumes are their trail, which leaves an alluring aftertaste from the perfume. And always such smells are distinguished by increased durability (from several hours to a couple of days).
Citrus
Citrus zest (bergamot, lemon and mandarin) is a source of essential aromas. And all this fruity creation is complemented by bitter orange flower extract. Citrus scents pair well with florals and woods, but often complement oriental scents.
However, lovers of citrus-based perfumes should understand that they are purchasing a product with a low durability index (only 3-5 hours). But such perfumes are good in the summer, when you really want more freshness.
The main citrus flavors are:
- lemon;
- bergamot;
- grapefruit;
- orange;
- tangerine;
- lime.
In its purest form, the scent of citrus perfume looks cheap. But in a composition of several different smells, they give the aroma a special piquancy.
Fruit
Perfume with a clear note of sweet fruit built on a berry base. The durability of such products is average - from 4 to 8 hours, which is more than citrus and floral fragrances.
Fruit scents are suitable for young girls with a sensitive romantic nature. While creatingperfumes are based on extracts:
- raspberries;
- cranberries;
- melons;
- watermelon;
- green apple;
- pineapple;
- exotic flowers with hints of vanilla, tart cinnamon and beans.
Perfume with a predominantly fruity scent is most often used during the daytime, preferably in the summer.
Fougere
The second name of fougere fragrances is fern. If you are the owner of such a fragrance, then know that it is based on oak moss extracts. But this is not the only source of fougere aroma. Fougère scents are:
- lavender;
- coumarin;
- geranium;
- smells of morning dew;
- fresh cut grass;
- morning forest, etc.
Fern scents - perfume scents for guys. There are also women's options, but most of these perfumes are unisex. These are tart, refreshing, daring fragrances that perfectly emphasize the youth of its owner. But for older people, they are not contraindicated, only in combination with oriental notes. And for youth, a combination with fruity or floral aromas is more preferable.
Chypre
The interesting name "chypre" is due to the Greek island of Crete, or rather the variety of oak moss that grows there. Its smell is brutal on its own, but when combined with aromas of sweet fruits, citrus, oriental spices and flowers, it gives a softer, woodysmell.
Chypre perfumes are considered universal, but men still prefer them more. Men's perfumes are especially good in combination with tobacco shades, suede or leather. But lovers of chypre will like additional notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, as well as perfumes with hints of bergamot and patchouli.
Chypre character perfumes are equally suitable for an evening or a gala exit. Their aroma is rich, giving its owner status, aristocracy.
The first chypre perfumes consisted of oak moss, patchouli, bergamot and frankincense gum. This scent is sweet, bitter and fresh at the same time. After that, one or more of these fragrances are present in all created chypre perfumery.
Chypre fragrances have medium longevity, which increases with contact with skin and hair, and weakens with clothing.
