They were kept behind the dark doors of sideboards and were taken out only on holidays. Perfume Magie Noire from Lancome was a symbol of the magical, inaccessible, forbidden. These perfumes were not bought, they were “gotten”, and for a long time in Russia they were synonymous with luxury and style. "Black Magic" is one of the most famous and, one might say, cult perfumes of the French house, known throughout the world.
Brand story
The world famous company Lancôme was founded by Armand Ptijean, perfumer and creator, in 1935. He gave the name of the company thanks to the French castle Lancosme, which Arman liked very much. And the roses that grew around the castle inspired its logo in the form of a golden rose, which can still be seen on boxes of Lancôme cosmetics and perfumes. Monsieur Ptizhan was very skeptical about advertising, believing that high-quality perfumes and cosmetics speak for themselves. All the more surprising is the success and scope that the company has achieved over the years.
Armand Ptizhan was born into a family of perfumers in 1884. The future owner of the legendary company studied to be an engineer. At the age of 20, he married, and over time, two children appeared in the family. The Ptizhan family had difficult times when Arman and his family were forced to go to South America, where he founded an import company. After the First World War, Arman returned to France, and later went to work in Brazil, where he met his future teacher and mentor Francois Coty, the one who discovered the chypre family to the world. From Coty, Petitjean learned to treat perfumery not only as a hobby, but also as a business that can bring a good income. After the death of his mentor, Ptizhan decided to open his own company.
Elegance and chic have become the philosophy of the brand. Brilliant specialists and celebrities were involved in the work with the brand. The art director for almost 30 years was the artist Georges Delom. For 14 years, the face of Lancome was the unsurpassed Isabella Rossellini. Armand Ptizhan, and then his son Marcel, chose the best and most expensive for the company in order to maintain the reputation of a chic brand. Gold lettering on the boxes and crystal vintage bottles are now treasures in the world of perfume collectors. The brand is chosen by the world's most famous faces.
In 1941, the company already had representative offices in thirty countries of the world and successfully competed with the giants Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent. Starting with a perfume line, the company expanded into a cosmetics line within a year of opening.
In 1942, the bold experimenter Arman Ptizhandecided to open a school for women who wanted to study cosmetology. In less than a year, the students learned the science of cosmetics and perfumery and went as Lancome envoys to other countries - to carry the philosophy of true French style. Throughout the history of the company, many masterpieces have been created. Lancome Magie Noire (parfum) is one of them. The company is now owned by L'Oreal Corporation, but its spirit - the spirit of chic and elegance - has been preserved.
History of perfume creation
Perfume Lancome Magie Noire was born in 1978, when Opium, Diorella and Chanel No. 19 ruled the ball. The creator, the famous French "nose" Gerard Goupy, drew inspiration from the East and sought to satisfy the brand's fans' craving for magic and mysticism. The perfumer was able to bottle sweet and chypre notes and created a harmonious perfume that appeared at the right time in the right place. The description of Magie Noire Lancome often mentions the density of the plume and incredible durability. Gerard Goupy collaborated with Lancome for several years and created the legendary Climat perfume, which is still considered the benchmark of French perfumery. The perfumer himself spoke of "Black Magic" with trepidation. In his interviews, he often said that the composition was a reflection of his childhood memories. Gupi created his perfumes with his mother in mind. But the fragrance turned out to be truly feminine, fatal, mysterious. Gerard Goupy himself admitted that he did not create "Black Magic" for every woman, but he wanted them to strive to be magical, exciting, and therefore he collected a unique collection of notes that still sounds apart in the perfume world. The shades of the fragrance are so perfectly matched that the whole composition sounds like a masterpiece. Interestingly, the perfumer chose the perfume formula from 30 different combinations. Only the twenty-fifth trial version came to his liking. Thus was born the famous "Black Magic", which has not yet been fully reformulated, to the delight of its fans.
Exquisite bottle
During its history, the beautiful bottle, originally created by the artist and designer Pierre Dinand, has changed four times. The inspiration for a seemingly simple thing like a small bottle was female beauty. The designer gave the bottle the shape of the neckline of a woman's dress. Magie Noire Lancome for women has become a reflection of elegance, and for men - seductiveness. The "neckline" of the very first bottle was framed with orange and dark red stripes, which fans call "suns". The pattern was repeated on the box, and the lid was small and round.
In the second version of the design, the sun pattern becomes small. The third and fourth versions - just the ones that got to Russia in the eighties - do not have colored stripes at all, all the letters of the name are capital and angular. There are also rare forms of bottles released in limited collections. But they also retain a resemblance to the female silhouette. Now on the shelves you can most often see not Magie Noire Lancome perfumes, but eau de toilette in a tall transparent bottle. Nevertheless, fans are looking for and finding those same black round bottles with caps in the form of balls, without a spray.
Descriptionfragrance
"Black Magic" from "Lankom" belongs to the oriental chypre group of fragrances. Smoky, sweet, with an elusive bitterness, but at the same time incredibly bright perfumes start with the smell of currant leaves and oak moss. The fragrance opens with a combination of honey notes, smoky incense and bitterness of galbanum. The animal note, which is often difficult for the human nose to accept, is woven into the overall chord very harmoniously and tinted with warm spices and amber. Animalistic notes give the whole fragrance an intimate sound. Judging by the reviews, chypre notes with hints of bergamot are clearly audible in Magie Noire Lancome. Against this background, floral notes are lost and merge into one common fragrance. The owners of the bottle describe the fragrance as thick, smoky, sweet. Echoes of dusty greens and a sweet chord of sandalwood, patchouli and amber remain in the loop. The smell is very persistent, can stay for more than a day on clothes. Its sillage is also not satisfactory, but it can cause a headache in cramped enclosed spaces.
The description of Magie Noire Lancome often uses the word "retro", but it does not mean that the perfume is outdated. Rather, it is a tribute to the classics of high perfumery. "Black magic" is described as a legend, an era, but even today it finds its admirers. Such spirits are beyond age and time. And the fact that many associate them with their childhood is explained only by the memory of those magical spirits that were kept in the closed cabinets of mothers and grandmothers. Magie Noire Lancome perfumes do not require a certain age or status, as they themselves create an aura of chic aroundowners. But to wear such a bright beauty, you need to have the courage and accurately understand the dosage. These perfumes are classified as evening ones, so going to work in them in the morning can be a mistake. Although connoisseurs and admirers wear them in any season, in any clothes. This is one of the few fragrances in the world that was created for women, but can be worn by men because of its strong base of oakmoss, vetiver and sandalwood.
Top notes
Top notes: bergamot, blackcurrant leaf, blackcurrant bud, raspberry, galbanum, hyacinth, rose.
It is not by chance that Magie Noire Lancome includes floral and berry notes. They create that feeling of childhood that perfumer Gerard Goupy tried to convey. The aroma of an exquisite rose is a symbol of femininity, and hyacinth emphasizes the beauty of a regal flower. Bright bergamot at the very beginning sets the chypre tone. As it is a complex, multi-component fragrance that combines citrus freshness with floral tenderness and herbaceous astringency, it often becomes a key note in the creation of chypres. The smell of a currant leaf cannot be confused with anything. The green fragrance takes you to a sunny summer, where, in addition to currants, you can also find raspberries. The tart-sweet beginning of the fragrance creates a unique sense of mystery in Black Magic perfume. Interestingly, the note of blackcurrant is revealed in different ways depending on the season. In spring and summer, this is a refreshing ringing fragrance. In autumn and winter - warm and warming. Rave reviews about Magie Noire Lancome only confirmthe correctness of the choice of notes by the perfumer.
Heart notes
Heart notes: honey, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orris root, lily of the valley, cedar, narcissus.
It would seem that in the heart the chypre beginning has no continuation at all. The sweet scents of honey, tuberose and jasmine are the loudest. But at the same time, "Black Magic" does not turn into a gourmand perfume, remaining a royal fragrance. According to reviews, in Magie Noire by Lancome, sweet notes are well set off by the aroma of cedar, which takes over the chypre baton at the top notes. Not everyone can feel the solo of lily of the valley, but, merging with the powdery sweet smell of narcissus and orris root, it creates the most delicate note as another facet of the feminine essence. For the eroticism of "Black Magic" the "flower-flowers" ylang-ylang is responsible. In the Philippines, where this amazingly beautiful flower with a multifaceted scent grows, ylang-ylang is considered a symbol of sensual love. He was greatly appreciated by Coco Chanel, considering one of the components of the fragrance of a real woman.
Base notes
Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, musk, civet.
In the description of the Magie Noire Lancome fragrance, animal notes are often mentioned that some people like, but others find unpleasant. This is a note of civet, a precious substance that was once mined in a very laborious way. The substance, or secret, was secreted by small animals of the viverrid family, civets. The animals were kept in cramped cages to collect a few drops of the elixir. A note of civet gave an intimateeroticism to the spirits, taking this baton from ylang-ylang. Fortunately, they learned to synthesize civet at the beginning of the last century, so "Black Magic" does not cost sky-high money, but remains the same mysterious and languid. Civet supports the musk, adding softness. Vetiver, which is also in the base, is considered to be a masculine note, because this greenish-bitter fragrance is part of so many men's colognes. But reviews of Magie Noire Lancome speak of the femininity of the fragrance. We can say that vetiver is responsible for the strength of the perfume, their steel core, which does not allow the base of sandalwood, patchouli and amber to simply dissolve into space.
Vintage version
Connoisseurs of rare vintage beauty can still enjoy the elegance and style of the fragrance, as Lancome Magie Noire eau de toilette contains almost the same formula as the very first perfume. Lancome's policy is that legendary perfumes do not reformulate. Nevertheless, there are still differences. It is well known that perfumes have a stronger concentration, which means durability and sillage. According to reviews, Lancome Magie Noire perfume has a thicker and richer smell. Many note that they have a more pronounced sweetness, while in eau de toilette the top notes last longer, giving the fragrance a fresh breath. At the same time, toilet water has the same bright plume as perfume, but less durability. There are two polar opinions about whether to buy vintage. Manufacturers indicate the expiration date for any perfume, after which it can not be used.recommended. Even if you do not understand the complex symbols on the bottle, you can determine that the perfume is spoiled by eye. The smell may change, sediment may form, and even an allergic reaction may occur. But collectors who write reviews of Magie Noire Lancome claim that, if properly stored, the vintage bottles that contain those incredible perfumes can be used 20 years after purchase, if the storage rules are followed. The bottle should be kept tightly closed, in a dark box and in a cool place. Do not expose vintage perfumes to direct sunlight, cold, sudden temperature changes and shaking. Only in this way they will be preserved, but not in their original form. The top notes will fade, while the heart and base will thicken and become more pronounced and persistent.
Modern version
For those familiar with Black Magic, this is a perfume from the past. From those times when everything foreign was automatically elitist, and spirits were a symbol of status and prosperity. It is that "Black Magic", carefully stored to the last drop, that is considered the best, unsurpassed version. Reviews of vintage Magie Noire Lancome abound with enthusiastic epithets "reference", "exemplary", "chic", "stunning", while the modern version is unfairly neglected. Yes, times have changed, and the technology of making perfumes has also changed. Few people can boast of completely natural perfume components. Most of them are synthetic. And this was done not only to reduce the cost of production, butand in order to conserve rare species of plants and animals. Therefore, it is incorrect to compare the vintage version of perfume and modern toilet water. The formula has remained the same, but the eau de toilette did not "live" as long as the perfume stored since grandmother's time, and does not have that concentration and saturation.
Many reviews of the modern version of Magie Noire Lancome perfume begin with lamenting that the fragrance is no longer what it used to be. But people who are unfamiliar with vintage and do not have warm memories of this perfume on their mother's dressing table say that the fragrance is multifaceted, subtle and inviting. It has an aristocracy, but not arrogant, but refined and elegant. It has been compared to classical music. Is it possible to say that modern classics are worse than the classics of Mozart and Bach? It's good, it was just created at a different time and for other people. So is Black Magic. The modern version is good for those who want to be a queen, but today, in a world of hurrying people and speeding cars. In this world, you can no longer move slowly, but you can still rise above the crowd.
For buyers
Vintage Magie Noire Lancome is still available from collectors, forums or auctions. At the same time, the price can reach exorbitant heights. For an incomplete bottle of 1990, they ask from nine to fifteen thousand. The price for a vintage of the 80s reaches more than thirty thousand rubles. However, there is no guarantee that the fragrance has remained the same, since most of the bottles have already been used. Purchasing the modern version will cost you differentlyexpensive. But Lancome cosmetics and perfumes still belong to the luxury class, not the mass market. Therefore, even in chain stores, Magie Noire Lancome 75 ml toilet water will cost from four to seven thousand rubles. You should beware of perfume at a very low price. Since the policy of the manufacturer implies the use of high-quality materials, the price tag cannot be lower than three thousand rubles. Any perfume should be tested on the skin before purchase. Not only to check how the fragrance holds and whether you like it, but in order to avoid unpleasant consequences in the form of allergies after purchase. You can buy original eau de toilette in perfume shops or on the official website of Lancome.
