According to D. Ushakov's dictionary, a fashionista is a dressmaker who makes products and decor details for a female image: hats, dresses, veils. But in fact, the meaning of the word “modiste” in history has a much broader definition. The milliners were engaged in both individual tailoring of clothes and hats, and opened shops where they exhibited original models of women's toilets.
In 16th-20th century France, a milliner was a woman who designs, sews and sells fashionable dresses and hats. The fashion for incredibly puffy elegant dresses, openwork headdresses, fans, feathers and lace, which broke out at the end of the Renaissance, literally created this profession.
Profession of a milliner in the history of Europe
Now this word in its original meaning is rarely used. But at one time, turning to a milliner was a common thing, especially for nobles. By the way, the first mention of this speci alty dates back almost 400 years. Having originated in France, the profession soon spread throughout the world, and everyone knew who the milliner was. She became the prototype of modern fashion designers (couturier).
At the dawn of the Baroque era, all thimble and needle craftsmen were divided into several professions. The tailor began to cut and sew suits for men. The seamstress worked on the creation of underwear, and the milliner was engaged in tailoring and decorating dresses for women.
In the era of Romanticism, the profession, thanks to which women could decorate themselves with dresses embroidered with pearl patterns, with frills and draperies, lace and embroidery, gained incredible popularity. The most talented milliners were known far beyond the borders of their countries, and noble people from all over the world went to them. They were respected and revered as trendsetters.
What was the scope of the millinery
Modistes, who worked with their own hands, created hats and other headgear and decorated them. They sewed clothes of simple styles, as well as capes, shawls, mantillas, veils, scarves, fans. To create complex dresses, they ordered the basis (silhouette, style) from tailors, and then independently decorated the product with ribbons, lace, braid, fringe, precious stones, floral embroidery.
There was another direction in the activities of the milliner - this is the renewal of worn things. They were often asked to freshen up old dresses. The milliners reshaped and decorated them, creating “new” things from worn ones.
But a milliner is not a dressmaker or a cutter, as many assume. The task of the tailor was the basic rule: "The main thing is that the suit fits." And milliners, like modern couturiers, knew a lot aboutjewelry, frills, lace, accessories and could create masterpieces based on a simple cut dress.
The popularity of the millinery profession
Fashion trends in clothing in the period from the 16th to the 20th century were dictated by the milliners. This allowed those of them whom the people recognized as the most talented, to have their own fashion houses, in which hired workers worked, and sometimes their number reached 100 people.
In order to fulfill large orders in full and offer clients images in the same style, such workers as tailors, seamstresses, lacemakers, embroiderers, furriers, as well as those who created artificial flowers, processed feathers, and made corsets were involved.
The most famous milliner of all time is considered Rosa Bertin, who sewed toilets for the Queen of France Marie Antoinette (pictured) and was awarded the court title of "Minister of Fashion". This most talented woman had her own shop (“The Great Mogul”), where noble nobles came for outfits from all over France, from England, Spain, Sweden and Russia. Rose Bertin is considered by fashion historians to be the first French fashion designer.
Modistka in Russia
The term “modiste” came to Russia only two centuries after its formation in France. Beginning in 1803, professional milliner schools for women were opened in the major cities of the empire. In addition, ladies' milliners formed entire professional communities, where they shared new developments and knowledge gained abroad.
In modern Russian societythe profession of a modist has practically lost its significance. But fashion is now striding by leaps and bounds, and thanks to the availability of information, this term has begun to be mentioned again. This word is often used as a description of their professional activities by novice designers.
It is interesting that in the register of professional standards of Russia, the milliner is still listed as a position. This profession belongs to the section of specialists in the repair and individual tailoring of garments and knitwear, fur and leather products, haberdashery, hats.
