Now it's easy to buy nail modeling materials, watch a video tutorial and make a gel manicure yourself. Well, if everything works out the first time. But for the most part, it doesn't. Material flowing on the cuticle, uneven smile lines, pecking down nails - all this betrays an inept master.
To avoid mistakes, you need to know how to grow nails correctly. It should be noted that the requirements for the shape of nails have changed with the advent of modern materials. Older shaped tips make them wide and slightly curved down, in addition, the use of tips involves applying some thickness of material to them. Therefore, those girls who wear long natural nails will immediately determine the unnatural shape.
The nail must have a certain design, architecture. Then it will be beautiful and it will be difficult to break it. This is taught in nail schools.
Nail training
Although there are many schools, not all of them teach arch modeling. When choosing a training studio, it is better to focus on this aspect, as well as on the fact thatdoes it have programs for arched modeling for masters who improve their skills. A detailed study of the modeling architecture will give an idea of how to properly build nails.
While working with the material (whether gel or acrylic), the modern task of the master is to artificially bend the nail in cross section during the polymerization of acrylates, forming an arch. Salon formation is considered to be 25%, and competitive - 50% of the circle. This procedure is called "squeezing".
How did you come to this decision? Much thanks to nature. The natural shape of long nails has a curved transverse arch of the free edge. The lateral ridges of such a nail are parallel, the nail bed is also in the shape of an arch, so the nails seem narrow and graceful. In addition, the so-called stiffeners are formed, which make the nail strong.
Over time, wearing long nails causes the growth of hyponychium - the skin under the free edge of the nail. This leads to lengthening of the nail bed. Therefore, the modeling of an elongated nail bed is also considered the norm for artificial nails, which practically excludes the use of white tips.
Why study for yourself
It is unlikely that extended nails will bring joy to their mistress if they break quickly. Detachments, always clinging to the hair, chips and cracks spoil the mood. If before the questions of girlfriends: “Did you increase it yourself?” - were pronounced with admiration, now this question means the presence of gross errors in the work. Otherwisecase, it would not have arisen. These are the moments that make attending nail extension lessons.
The materials used by the masters in the salons have also undergone significant changes. Some well-known brands already have compressible gels, but not all of them. How annoying it will be when, when the arch is pressed, the nail will crack along the entire length! It's just that this material is not designed for deformation, it's an old line of gels.
In order not to get confused about manufacturers, compatible and incompatible materials, polymerization time and many other subtleties, it is better to get nail extension training at a good school.
Modern nail extensions
To keep all the proportions of the artificial nail, disposable forms are used for modeling. They can be paper or foil. There is no standard, universal form: all nails are different, and often the shape is trimmed to better fit on the finger. If the nails are very wide, you have to make a compound shape, gluing two into one. For extreme length, two forms are also used, but in this case they are connected in length.
Building nails on forms, as it may seem at first glance, is more difficult than on tips. However, it is not. If you understand all the subtleties, understand how the slightest deviations from the classical setting of forms work, you can successfully correct the incorrectly growing nail plate. Masters prefer just such extensions.
Under the paper forma metal tube is substituted along which the C-curve of the nail is bent. In total there are ten sizes, this is quite enough for substitution. In the question of how to properly build nails, they are of paramount importance. Install them as an extension of the finger, avoiding offsets and picking up much less natural arch to make a tight C-bend.
Shape setting technology
There are several types of disposable forms. There are quite primitive, almost without divisions. There are also very detailed ones, with marked control points for building a competent architecture. When buying, you should check whether the glue holds well. Poor-quality forms stick in the lamp, fly off and spoil the whole work.
Usually well-known companies produce quality molds, and you can choose from them. If you make a purchase in a professional store, you are more likely to purchase a quality product. But here's everything you need bought. It's time to figure out how to build nails on forms. They are also called templates. The natural shape of nails is different for everyone. You can distinguish "pecking", springboard and trapezoidal. Therefore, the templates are cut individually with scissors.
The illustration shows how to cut out the area in the smile area and make undercuts at the side ridges, depending on the natural shape of the nail.
To form square nails, the template is put a little up. To model the shape of a stylet or almond pattern, on the contrary, put a little down. This is done in order to give the ends the smallest thickness,increasing it nevertheless in the stress zone.
Tubules help to set the desired shape of the template. For square nails, the template is glued so that it forms a hollow shape at the end, and for stylets and almond nails, its sides on the free edge are fully connected to form a cone.
Modern materials
Gel and acrylic are used to model nails. In the salon, they can combine these materials: make an acrylic substrate, tighten the arch, lay out the nail bed with camouflage gel, file and report a white smile with the gel. To make this possible, the materials for nail extensions must be combined with each other. It is known that all American materials lay down well and are not rejected. Unfortunately, this cannot be said about Chinese materials. Therefore, when buying, you should pay attention to the manufacturer.
Not all gels are suitable for tightening the arch, so you need to be especially careful when choosing them. Usually a transparent substrate is made and clamped during polymerization, and then the material continues to be laid out on the already formed nail. But sometimes there is no such gel on sale, in which case it can be replaced with a pink design gel that can hold its shape.
What you need to build gel nails:
- Cure lamp.
- Gel base.
- Designing transparent or pink gel (capable of squeezing).
- Camouflage gel for laying out lengthening the nail bed.
- White smile gel.
- Top top gel.
- Disposableforms.
- Tubes.
- Peels 180 grit, 150 grit, buff 180/240 grit.
- Brush number 4 for gel.
- Reverse tongs, molds for clamping in a lamp.
- Preparation fluids: degreaser, acid-free primer.
All gels are divided into two large groups: capable and not capable of polymerization in an LED lamp. Usually, all older generation gels are dried in UV lamps. For convenience, it is better to buy a lamp that combines UV and LED technologies.
Before you build acrylic nails, the following materials are prepared:
- Brush number 6 for acrylic.
- Monomer.
- Transparent acrylic powder.
- Camouflage acrylic powder.
- White acrylic powder.
- Disposable forms.
- Tubes.
- Files 180 grit, 150 grit, buff 180/240 grit, polisher 1000 grit.
- Degreaser, acid primer.
Squeezing
There are certain features in the arch compression, depending on the material for nail extension. The technique of squeezing acrylic is different from gel. To form a C-bend in acrylic technique, you must first clamp the stress zone. There is the largest amount of material here, so acrylic polymerizes faster. If you do not have time to do this, all the work will be in vain. Will have to redo.
Another difficulty is that acrylic sets quickly and becomes very hard. With every second, more and more efforts are required to change the transverse bend. Acrylic feature - fastpolymerization in a warm room. Therefore, this should also be taken into account, remembering how to build acrylic nails. After clamping the stress zone, they begin to form the bend of the free edge.
Each brand of acrylic has its own characteristics and, accordingly, its own preload time. To determine whether it is time to make a bend or not, they check the consistency of acrylic: it should bend, not smear. In most cases, the master can do this simply with his fingers.
Gels are clamped only when warm. If the gel has cooled down, it is too late to tighten it, it may crack. Highly pigmented white gels and camouflages look beautiful but take a long time to cure. Therefore, it is better to cover them with a transparent gel and press them again. It becomes necessary to observe the position of the hand in the lamp.
Finished arched shapes
If the substitution of forms seems difficult and incomprehensible, you can use the high-speed method of salon building - using ready-made arched forms. They also have several sizes, fit all nails, form a free edge with a finished arch. How they work, will show the lesson of nail extension on the video.
In this technology, first a substrate is made with a given length of the free edge, and then the usual laying out of the material. You can do both gel and acrylic extensions. On the positive side, there is no need to use disposable molds, tubes, tongs and molds to clamp in the lamp.
Arch technology
First of all, we need the arched forms themselves. This is a set of 50 molds tensizes. The nails are prepared for extension and the appropriate shape is selected for each nail. After that, the desired length is marked with a marker on the outside. Now you can start modeling.
How to build gel nails at home:
- A thin layer of gel is applied to the arch shape, intermediate polymerization - 8 seconds.
- Apply a staging drop of gel in the attachment area and set on the nail. Polymerize without releasing the mold for a few seconds. Dry in the lamp for the time required by the manufacturer.
- Carefully remove uniform.
- Lay out the nail bed with lengthening camouflage gel, polymerize.
- Remove dispersion and file camouflage.
- Spread the white gel in the smile area, polymerize.
- Cover the work with a transparent top gel.
How to grow nails without forms
If there are difficulties with setting any forms - both classic and arched, there is an interesting technology for strengthening the free edge and the stress zone with fiberglass. This technology is adapted for building small lengths with sculptural biogels - solid soluble materials.
The modeling process resembles the strengthening of nails with silk: a cut piece of silk is superimposed on the base gel and sunk into the material. Then it shifts slightly from the nail, a small free edge is formed. After polymerization, a good substrate is obtained, like glued tips.
To get a beautiful C-curve, induring polymerization hold the arch clamped with tongs in the desired position. After modeling, you can apply any design, give any shape to the nails.
And how to grow nails without acrylic forms? Using transparent tips. But the look of the nails will be far from ideal, because the tips are not tight. The use of acrylic to impregnate silk is also impossible.
Gel silk extension technology
There is a simple technology on how to build gel nails at home. This is the use of special fiberglass, the so-called silk for nail repair. This method is used to repair chipped corners and slightly elongate nails. Sometimes this procedure is combined with gluing natural-colored tips and reinforcing them with fabric.
For this you need to prepare:
- Silk, scissors, glue for tips.
- Files 180 grit, buff 240 grit and polishers 1000 grit.
- Nail polishing oil.
The procedure is shown in the video.
Since such nails do not last long, you can supplement this technology with a single-phase transparent extension gel. But this requires a UV lamp.
How to get gel nails for yourself:
- Prepare nails for extension (remove shine with buff, degrease, treat with acid-free primer).
- Glue the cut piece of silk and press well with an orange stick.
- Apply a thin layer of single-phase gel to the nails with rubbing movements, polymerize in a lamp.
- Apply gel on the nail in the stress zone, waitdistribute it along the entire length of the nail and turn the hand over for a few seconds to form the apex, then cure in the lamp.
- File the nail into shape.
- Cover with a thin layer of gel, like varnish, polymerize.
This is a pretty easy step by step guide on how to grow nails. For a slight elongation, two to three millimeters will be enough. As the nail grows back, a correction is made with the same gel. But you need to remember that the preload is done during the polymerization of the glue. Single phase gels do not compress.
Conclusion
Any business requires preparation and study, and a manicure is no exception. This article is only a small part of the science of how to grow nails correctly. But if you show perseverance, then everything will work out.
