Jewellers are skilled craftsmen who are able to see a beautiful gem in a cloudy fragment of a mineral and give it a magnificent shape. Types of classic cut gemstones are used by many stone craftsmen today and include three main types of cut - cabochon, round and facet - which, in turn, are divided into 250 varieties. The specific type of processing is selected by the jeweler depending on certain factors: the size and type of the mineral, its purity, hardness, optical properties and the skills of the master himself.
Below is a list of gemstone cuts used by artisans around the world.
Cabochon
The most ancient type of gemstone cutting, in which the mineral is given a convex shape without facets. Typically, this type of processing is used to cut opaque or translucent inserts, minerals with a "cat's eye" effect. The quality of polishing and grinding of the stone plays a huge role, since the main requirement for cabochons is perfectsmooth surface.
Circle
Circle is a classic gemstone cut. Types of stone processing in other ways appeared much later than her. The round cut was first invented in the 1900s. It was at this time that diamond saws were invented, which gave master jewelers the ability to work with diamonds and use them to process other diamonds, turning them into diamonds.
The round cut of stones and its types, which differ depending on the number of facets, help to create unique and original jewelry. The 57 facet cut is considered to be the best type - it gives the diamonds shine and shows all the beauty and play of light in their facets. Such a cut is most valued when repurchasing stones. Small stones are processed into 33 facets or 17 facets.
Great weight loss of the stone is a characteristic feature of this type of cut. Mineral processing takes about 50% of the original mass.
Oval
Types of gem cuts include one of the varieties of round processing - oval. Jewelers use it mainly for round nuggets. The first oval cut appeared only in the 1960s.
Pear
Despite such an unusual name, stones processed in this way are more like a drop. The side facets are made in the form of wedges, the upper platform is smooth, which provides a play of light. In this wayboth medium and large stones are processed. Pear is divided into such types of gemstone cuts as briolette and drop.
Marquis
This type of gemstone processing was named after the Marquise de Pompadour, the mistress of King Louis XV. The world famous beauty's flirtatious smile has been immortalized in oval cut jewels with oblong, pointed tips. The shape of the stones processed in this way is more like a boat.
Marquise-cut stones are very fragile: their elongated tips can be easily broken, so such jewelry is worn very carefully.
Baguette
Types of step-type gemstone cuts include rectangular processing - baguette. In fact, it is an indicator of quality, since it shows both the minuses and pluses of the stone. In inserts of this shape, with the naked eye, you can see internal defects or cutting errors. For this reason, when choosing such jewelry, it is advisable to pay attention to the quality of stone processing.
Princess
The "princess" is characterized by an unusual play of light in the stone, but at the same time it is performed in a square or rectangular shape. First appeared in 1960-1970. The cost of such a stone is less, since during cutting it practically does not lose weight. Diamonds are processed into a "princess" shape to adorn wedding rings. When placedstones in the frame try to close right angles, as they are the most fragile.
Octagon
Step type gemstone cuts include octagonal cut. The most popular is the emerald cut, which protects minerals from chips and damage, showing the purity and shade of the stone from the winning side.
Emerald
This type of cut is a rectangle with cut corners and large facets. It is used mainly for processing large stones of perfect purity, since it is impossible to hide the flaws of a nugget behind a large number of faces. It does not play with light like a round cut or a princess cut, but it significantly surpasses them in brightness and strength of refracted flashes.
Trillion
The most spectacular gemstone cut. The shape resembles a triangle with wedges. Depending on the design of the finished jewelry, the characteristics of the gem and the imagination and skill of the jeweler, the number of facets and the shape of the stone can change, which is the advantage of a trillion. This type of cut was first invented in Amsterdam, and today it is the most popular in the world.
Heart
Intricate and costly gemstone cuts include this type, the heart. It is used only in the manufacture of exclusive jewelry. the beautystone heart depends on the skill of the jeweler, therefore, when choosing such products, they first of all look at the evenness of the contour.
Cushion
Often, this type of gemstone cutting is called antique, or antique. Jewelers resort to it in cases where it is required to preserve the original appearance of the mineral. For example, almost all baroque diamonds were cut in this form.
Radiant
Outwardly, the stone, which was given such a cut, looks like a square or rectangle with cut corners. The radiant combines the features of such cuts as "emerald" and "princess". Jewelers use it for minerals that must be shown in all their glory: the play of light, color, clarity, transparency and size of the stone are demonstrated in this treatment. This cut has a more masculine and brutal character, so it is often chosen to create men's jewelry. Visually, such products shorten the phalanges of the fingers.
Usher
Square gemstone cuts include the Asscher variety. It is in many ways similar to the Emerald, but has more facets. Such a cut was invented in 1902 in Belgium by the Asher brothers-masters, it became most popular in the 1930s. The number of facets varies depending on the size of the stone. With stones cut in this form, art deco pieces are made.
Why are gems processed?
Cutting - mechanical processing of semi-precious andprecious gems, carried out in order to give the stones the desired shape and structure, which ensure the full manifestation of the characteristics of the material. During the processing process, regular geometric surfaces are formed on the surface of the stone, which add up to the desired shape.
The cut creates a play of light that demonstrates the optimal perception of the brilliance and color palette of the gems. A large number of facets and their arrangement guarantee an iridescent light effect. The formation and arrangement of facets and surfaces repeatedly refracts and reflects the light rays focused by the stone. Color overflows give the constituent shades of the spectrum, into which the refracted rays are decomposed.
Cutting technology and the processing of precious and semi-precious stones with its help implies two main elements: the type of facets and the external shape of the stone. Types and forms of cutting precious stones are numerous today, but the process of giving the gem the desired shape is very laborious and lengthy. The minimum number of facets is 30, and in complex forms it can reach 240. In addition, each of them must be made at a perfectly correct angle and with a flat surface.
Excluding the play of light in the stone, the cut must meet several criteria. This is:
- Sanding material.
- Minimum lost mass.
- The manifestation of form and color.
- The stone matches the entire decoration in color, shape, style.
Depending on the type of stone, its size and the purpose of the finished jewelry, the jewelerselects a certain form of cutting. Some types of stones - for example, emeralds and diamonds - have their own cuts, others use any type.
Gemstone cutting can give any piece of jewelry a noble and attractive appearance. The types and methods of processing gems have been invented and improved over the centuries, and each of them has its own characteristic features. Without a cut, any, even the most expensive and rare stone, will seem like a trinket. Only in the hands of a real master jeweler does a gem get a second life and delight people with its beauty, grace and originality.
