It's easy to buy clothes for a slim girl with beautiful shapes, but it's a little more difficult for the owners of curvy shapes, because it's not so easy for them to buy stylish fashionable outfits in their size. This is very disappointing for girls and women whose clothing size is over 50. Below we will consider the most popular and interesting options for patterns of a summer dress in size 54.
Measuring
The very first step in the design of any product that will be sewn with your own hands is the taking of measurements. To feel comfortable and comfortable in a dress, you need to take the correct body position during the measurement. It is important not to reduce your size on purpose. For example, if there is a bulging belly, then you should not retract it. If this is done, then when used, it will turn out that the product is too narrow.
Standard values will be used for step-by-step construction of a size 54 dress pattern. In addition, take those numbers thatspecific to this variant. The increase in volume in the chest area will be 3 cm, moreover, half a centimeter is added to the back pattern, in the armhole part - 1 cm, and to the front of the dress - one and a half centimeters.
Traditional parameters for creating a size 54 dress pattern are the following data:
- Product length - 1 m.
- Back width (hereinafter Ws) - 38 cm (half - 19 cm).
- The height of the sprout, which is determined by the articulation of the shoulder level with the neck to the waistline along the back - 41 cm.
- The length from the point of the back to the waistline, the distance of which is determined from the beginning of the seventh vertebra of the neck to the waist DTS - 39 cm.
- Girth at the base of the neck - 38 cm.
- The girth of the bust itself is 108 cm.
- Torso girth above the chest - 98 cm.
- Waist - 94 cm.
- Hip circumference at the most voluminous part - 120 cm.
- The depth of the armhole of the dress, which is calculated from the seventh vertebra of the neck to the beginning of the armhole - 21 cm.
- Shoulder height from waist to back - 36 cm.
- Armhole width - 12 cm.
- The value of the tuck solution, which is measured from the initial part of the chest to the maximum protruding gap - 12 cm.
- The height of the chest area is 29.5 cm.
- The height of the widest area of the hips is 20 cm.
- Shoulder length - 13 cm.
- The length of the front to the level of the waist (hereinafter Dtp) - 44 cm.
- Front shoulder length to waist - 39cm
- The gap between the maximum protruding points of the chest is 22 cm.
- Sleeve length - 59 cm.
- Arm circumference - 34 cm.
- Girthwrist - 19 cm.
- The width of the front part, which is measured by the protrusions of the chest - 46 cm.
After taking measurements to build a dress pattern of size 54, you can check the correctness of this procedure: Ws + Shpereda + two armhole widths=108 cm. When substituting the measured values, it turns out:
38 + 46 + 122=108 cm.
In order to ensure a sufficient fit of the dress according to the figure, an additional increase in spaciousness on the body should be made - 3 cm. It turns out that the half-girth will be 57 cm.
In order to independently carry out a pattern of a simple dress of size 54, you should follow certain steps in sequence. First, the backrest is drawn, then the front.
Calculation and drawing of the backrest
The construction of a size 54 dress pattern should start from point (hereinafter referred to as) A, which is located at a distance of about 15 cm from the border of the sheet. Then the vertical and the horizontal descend from it. On the vertical line, t. N is marked with a distance of 100 cm.
The depth of the armhole in the product is marked by setting aside on the main horizontal t. G. Also add 5mm to ensure a loose fit.
AG is obtained as the sum of 21 cm and 0.5 cm.
The length of the back is similarly postponed, according to the dimensions AT=39 cm.
Then the hip line is examined and applied. To do this, 20 cm are set aside from T. T and mark T. L.
Constructionwidth
Now you should draw straight lines in the horizontal direction from the drawn points and you can start building the backrest horizontally.
From t. G, half the size of the width is set aside and t. G1 is marked. The value of the GG1 segment is the sum of 19 cm and 0.5 cm. From this point, verticals are drawn in each direction to build T. B and T1.
For the width of the armhole, the sum of 6 cm and 0.5 cm from T. G1 is postponed. To design the sides of the product, a perpendicular segment should be drawn from point G2. At the intersection with the rest of the straight lines, points T2, L1, H1 are marked, respectively. Now you should make a cutout for the neckline of the back. For this, a segment is built
AA1=19: 3 + 1=7.3 cm, where 19 is 1/3 of half of your neck measurement.
The difference between the height of the sprout and the measure of the length of the back A1A2 is postponed from the new t. A1, this is the difference of 41 cm and 39 cm. T. A and A2 are connected by a line that is drawn smoothly and correctly. It turns out a beautiful neckline.
Shoulder alignment
Now you can draw the shoulder: from point T1, 36 cm of shoulder height is laid off and t. P. Additionally, another point is being built to design the armhole. G1V should be divided into 3 identical parts, mark T. O. from below. An arc is drawn from it, which has a radius OP. To calculate the shoulder length of the product, use the following calculation:
Dpl=shoulder length + 2 cm.
For darts 13 + 2=15 cm.
The lower point of the P1 shoulder should be located on the previously constructed arc. To apply the armhole backyou should connect t. P1, O, G2.
To build a shoulder tuck on a size 54 dress pattern, measure 1/3 of the shoulder value to the right side from point A2. A perpendicular of 8 cm is lowered from the received point B1, point B2 is marked, the length of the tuck equal to 2 cm is measured from point B1, and point B3 is marked. Now B2 and B3 can be joined by a segment.
Waist area
To make the product look good at the waist, you will need to calculate the difference between the mesh of the back and a quarter of the waist. For the size in question, this value is calculated as follows: 1⁄2 back width with an overlap for a spacious fit + half the width of the armhole with an addition - 1⁄4 of the waist circumference as measured:
(19, 5 + 6, 5) - 23, 5=26 - 23, 5=2, 5.
To indicate on the diagram, take a rounded figure of 3 cm. Add 1 cm to the resulting number to ensure a spacious fit.
Building a transmission scheme
On one sheet of paper, all the lines of the back are extended to the right. Point H3 is approximately removed from point H1 at a distance of about 50 cm. To obtain new points L3, T4, G3, a straight vertical line is drawn upwards.
Fix width
To apply the main width of the front from t. G3 to the left side, draw 1⁄2 of the width in the chest area according to the measurement taken, add a little to the spacious fit and get t. G4. When calculating G3G4, you get:
23 + 1.5=24.5 cm.
A perpendicular segment descends and rises from this point,point T5 is placed at the intersection.
To make the width in the armhole area of the front from t. G4, build half the width of the cutout with an increase of 6.5 cm, so it turns out t. G5. A new vertical descends down, points T6, L4, H4 are marked at the intersection.
To determine the height of the front part, t. Sh is marked. from T. T4 and counted 44 cm.
Definition and construction of the neckline
To calculate the size of the throat in width, a horizontal line is drawn from t. Sh, a segment of a third of the half-girth of the neck is separated on a straight line. It is also worth adding 1 cm for any sizes. It turns out a segment:
ШШ1=19: 3 + 1=7.3 cm.
Segment WSH2 is calculated as follows:
one third of the neck half circumference+1.5cm=19: 3 + 1.5=7.8 cm.
For the cutout, build a line between Ш1 and Ш2 neatly and smoothly. Divide the resulting segment into 2 equivalent parts, draw an additional line of 7.3 cm through it.
Chest area drawing
The center point of the chest area is initially determined. Half the length of the maximum protruding point of the chest area is laid off from t. G3 according to the formula: G3G6 is half 22 cm, that is, 11 cm. Then, the connection of t. G6 and Sh1 is performed.
To build the height, extend the segment Ш1Г6 down. Build t. C at a distance of 29.5 cm.
Now you can define the top of the chest tuck. It will be located slightly above the most protruding point of the chest. From point C1, measure 2-2.5 cm and mark point C1. The value of the tuck solution is counted from it according to the measurement performed - 12see. Get point C2. Using a compass, a segment C1C2 is drawn. Arc radius - 12 cm.
To determine the depth of the chest tuck, you will need to calculate the value of the difference between half the girth of the chest area and ½ part of the girth above the chest:
54 - 49=5cm.
This distance is drawn from point C2, so points C3, T, C1 and C3 are obtained, further connected by a straight line. As a result, the equality С1Ш2=С1Ш1.
Building a shoulder
To build a pattern for a dress sleeve size 54 from T5, lay 39 cm from the top of the shoulder length in front to the waist line. Then the G4P2 segment is divided into 4 equivalent sections, the most extreme point from the bottom is marked - O1. An arc with a radius of O1P2 is drawn from it. To build the shoulder length of the front of the product from W2, measure the distance of the same size with the shoulder. One lower point should be on the arcuate section Ш2П3=13 cm.
Through t. P3, O1, G5 a neat curve is drawn, which will become the border of the armhole.
Dart at the waist
First, darts are calculated according to the values obtained during the measurement: (Width of the front + armhole size) - a quarter of the waist circumference=
=(23 + 6) - 23.5=5.5 cm.
To build darts on the side and at the waist, the number calculated above is used. Darts are built with the following depth parameter:
- tuck on the side - 2 cm;
- right waist - 2 cm;
- another small waist tuck - 1.5 cm.
Sideline,done on the hip area
In order for the dress pattern of size 54 to fit, and the dress itself to sit perfectly on the hips and not be narrow, it is necessary to provide for the volume that is lacking in this particular part. For the calculation, use the formula: half-circumference of the femoral part according to measurements + 2 cm for free fit - mesh width according to the constructed scheme (difference 62 cm and 57.5 cm).
One part of this value is added to the thigh front and the other part to the back.
The result should be a full size 54 dress pattern for a plus size woman.
After drawing the drawing lines on paper, you should check the results. To do this, a ready-made dress pattern of size 54 is cut out, the resulting paper product is put on itself and the accuracy of the constructions is evaluated. If everything suits you, then you can start applying to the material, and then sewing.
Building and sewing a dress of the right size is not so difficult if you use a competent instruction that describes in detail all the details of the production of such an outfit.
