Nail technology is evolving all the time. New products and methods are emerging. Auxiliary tools are being developed, such as top or arch forms. The idea of ideal extended nails and their proportions is changing. Now the first acrylic nails seem ugly - wide, curved down.
Nail modeling has become an art. There are such forms of nails that only artists wear - such an image is required by the stage. But there is also salon modeling, with its own traditions. So to speak, nails "ready-to-wear". About him and will be discussed.
What are the types of nail extensions?
Nail extension technology is reduced to the polymerization of acrylates, which create an artificial nail plate. The variety of methods does not affect the final result. Properly performed extension forms beautiful, long, strong nails. A master who owns all technologies will find the best way to solve the problem. Individual approach to each finger is what he achieves.
Sometimes girls come to the salon, sure that they need to grow their nailsgel "as in the picture" and do it in an hour. And when the master, looking at a photo from a fashion magazine, answers that this is impossible in such a short time, they are offended and consider the master to be a dropout. This is sad.
Of course, there are high-speed extension methods. But it takes time to complete an elongated French bed, a design after extension (sometimes choosing a variant of this design). Therefore, it is good to have an idea about the different methods of nail extension. To date, technologies have been developed for building up with gel, acrylic, biogel, on disposable, upper or arched forms. Let's take a closer look at them.
Gel technology
Gel nail extension technology is slightly different for different schools. Introducing a simulation that uses fiberglass nail bed lengthening:
- Standard nail preparation - shine removal, degreasing.
- Fiberglass pattern on the nail.
- Apply primer.
- Applying the base gel and laying out the fiberglass. Polymerization.
- Laying out the nail bed with camouflage gel. Polymerization.
- Setting a one-time form.
- Laying out the free edge with white gel. Polymerization.
- Reinforcement with hard transparent gel. Polymerization.
- Removing the structure with a liquid transparent gel. Polymerization.
- Dispersion removal, sawdust, grinding, degreasing.
- Design and top gel coating. Polymerization. Dispersion removal.
In the case when a jacket is not needed, the application of fiberglass and sawdust of the nail bed is skipped. For the beauty of the linesmake the gel compression with special tweezers.
Acrylic technology
Acrylic nail extension technology is distinguished by precise movements: acrylic polymerizes in air. Therefore, the size of the brush, the amount of monomer and acrylic powder are important to form the desired drop of material.
Classic acrylic modeling includes the following operations:
- Standard nail preparation - filing the free edge of the nail, removing shine, degreasing.
- Setting up a disposable paper mold folded over the pattern to model the arch.
- Processing the nail plate with an acid primer.
- A large ball of material is collected on the brush and the free edge is laid out.
- The middle ball of pink acrylic is typed and a joint is formed with a free edge.
- A small pink ball fills the cuticle area.
- Transparent acrylic strengthens the stress zone.
- Arch compression in progress.
- Shape being removed.
- Filing, grinding, polishing with special files.
Acrylic nails are thinner than gel nails, but are afraid of solvents.
Building on forms
Increase nails on both forms and tips. Tips do not leave room for modeling complex designs, for which you need to put the forms slightly down or slightly up from the plane of the nail. But sometimes they are needed: when the nails are too short with large pads on the fingers or the hyponychium is too high, which does not allow to substitute the form. Masterhe will choose how best to make the simulation. But, I must say, a professional will try to make the most of the forms.
Only forms are used for correction. In addition, after two corrections, the tips grow together, and then you need to raise the free edge, sawing it out with a cutter. Nails grow a little down, after a certain time it becomes visible. Therefore, the free edge is filed.
The technology of nail extension on forms allows much more than on tips. It is divided into several types of staging:
- Without changing the paper form.
- With shape undercuts at the side bolsters.
- With a template for the perfect arch.
- With bonding two shapes for extreme lengths.
- Substitution springboard (on natural pecking nails).
- Substitution "slightly down" for the stylet (so that the side lines after the filing are in place).
It is often necessary to cut out a paper shape along the smile line for each nail.
Biogel Extension
The technology of biogel nail extension, in general, does not differ from the usual gel one. The main thing is not to confuse an independent biogel and a non-self-supporting one, which is so flexible that it does not allow the formation of a free edge without a solid gel substrate.
Procedure:
- Preparation of nails - cutting off the free edge of the nail, removing shine, degreasing.
- Setting a one-time form.
- Processing the nail plate with an acid-free primer.
- Making the substrate with an independent biogel, polymerization.
- Removing the sticky layer, sawdust.
- Biobase application, polymerization.
- Laying out the structure with camouflage from the line of biogels, polymerization.
- Drawing a smile with white biogel, polymerization.
- Overlapping with top gel from biogel system and polymerization.
This type of extension is used in the case of a thin nail plate.
Forms for extensions: upper and lower
Technology of gel nail extension on forms is upper and lower. Conventional disposable forms used for extensions are placed under a short nail. The entire structure is built on top of the form. But there is another way, not recognized by the International School of Nail Experts. These are the upper forms.
This technology was invented to help the salon master for high-speed gel modeling. When using the upper forms, the operations of filing and grinding are excluded. A significant plus is the ability to lay out an aquarium manicure in the form, and not on the nail.
Not all gels are suitable for polymerization in the form: transparent gels polymerize well, but pigmented ones do not. But for such a case, there are LED gels. To work with the upper forms, you need a turning lamp to dry the free edge under the nail.
For modeling nails of small length, such forms are well suited, but it should be noted that they cannot be tightened. If you need to build long modern arched nails, there is another technology.
Archedshapes
The upper forms were created before the adoption of new standards for the architecture of modeled nails. They are designed to lay out the structure in the form, while arched forms are designed to create a substrate. The architecture is built by the master from above.
It became possible to build all modern types of long nails. If necessary, the arched shape can be put a little up or a little down. The upper forms did not allow this.
The step-by-step technology of nail extension on arched forms does not differ from the usual gel technology on forms. The substitution of a one-time form, laying out the substrate, setting the template and preloading the free edge are excluded.
In general, they help the master a lot, because you do not need to repeatedly substitute-cut the paper form, do not need templates for the transverse arch - the forms already have a competitive bend.
Compression is needed only in the area of the smile antennae, and even then not always.
Step-by-step gel nail extension technology
There are single-phase gels that are convenient for building nails at home. Although such a gel combines all three phases (base, construction and top), the process is carried out according to a scheme similar to three-phase gels:
- Preparation of the nail - you need to completely remove the natural free edge, then remove the natural shine of the nail with a buff. Brush off the dust and degrease the nail with alcohol.
- Primer application is an important operation.
- The natural nail bed is processed with a semi-dry brush by rubbing movements. This sets the boundaries of the artificialmaterial over which it should not flow. Polymerization.
- Staging the shape - as usual, cutting the sides of the smile, substituting the template for the c-bend.
- Performing a substrate on the entire free edge and tip of a natural nail. If the gel compresses, apply forceps at the 10th second and continue polymerization.
- Architecture laying out: a large drop is distributed along the entire length, the nail is turned over and the apex is formed - the highest point. Polymerization.
- Stick removal, sawdust and sanding.
- Final coat of gel like polish. Polymerization.
It turns out a monochromatic nail, so it's better to take a camouflage gel - you get a nude manicure. If you want to make a white smile after sawdust, the eighth point will be applying the white tip with gel polish and, after polymerization, topping for gel polish.
Conclusion
Nail technology has many options. Which one is right for you - a competent master will tell you. Therefore, before building nails at home, it is better to consult a specialist.
