You visited a nail salon, but were dissatisfied with the result. When you applied light tones of gel polish, this did not happen. But now, near the cuticle, the coating for some reason did not want to hold on and “moved out” to the center of the nail. The master assured that this is normal - this is how dark gel polishes behave. Is she right? And how to apply gel polish under the cuticle?
Why does gel polish "move out"?
If the coating does not reach the cuticle, this does not mean that the master did not paint the nail in this place. There is such a phenomenon - during polymerization, the pigment leaves the edges of the plate. If you look at the end of the nail, then there will be the same picture.
I must say that not all covers behave this way. There are brands of varnishes in which the likelihood of such a result is minimized. Very often, Chinese-made varnishes sin with this.
The following happens: when applying the base, the nail is covered as close as possible to the cuticle. After polymerization, its upper dispersion layer is already a smaller surface.
A similar phenomenon can be observed when placing a drop of water on a table. At first, it will be with steep edges, and as it evaporates, it will become flatter, losing itsoriginal shape, and eventually becomes a small wet spot.
The color layer is placed on the base dispersion. As we remember, its area has decreased compared to the first, base, layer. Therefore, the first color layer has a smaller area than the base. It seems to be shifting from all edges to the center of the nail.
This intensifies when applying a second color coat. And when it comes to the top (top transparent coating), it has a very small area of dispersion.
Effect of excessive dispersion on coverage
If you do not pay attention to the thickness of each layer, the following problems are possible:
- coating shrinkage;
- thick nail tips;
- open end.
The photo shows how much the color layer has gone from the cuticle and how “knobs” have formed on the free edges of the nails. Apparently, the master was very diligent in painting over the end of the nail, so there was an excess of coating. Having polymerized, they created an ugly volume. And if you look closely, even from this angle you can see that the end of the nail remained light. The pigment "moved out" from him.
This coating will not wear well. It will quickly chip off the ends and you will have to redo everything. Already now the nails look like they have been coated for two weeks. Is it worth paying money for a well-worn look?
Cuticle gel polish method
How to deal with an excessively abundant dispersion layer? After all, he is the culprit of the fact that shellac "moves out." Some advise gently removing the dispersion with a dry, lint-free cloth. Notall, so as not to violate the technology, but only a part (pull off the excess from the nail). But there is a better way.
There is a method of applying a coat so close to the cuticle that it is called "cuticle gel polish". It includes three points:
- Careful preparation of the nail plate and proximal ridge.
- Copying technique.
- Working in thin layers.
If you carefully follow this technology, you should get the perfect result. Approximately as in the photo below.
Unedged manicure and the subtleties of gel polish
Applying gel polish under the cuticle with an unedged manicure has a number of points that can become a problem:
- uncleaned eponychium;
- uncut cuticle;
- not open proximal fold.
But if you overcome these obstacles, you can apply gel polish under the cuticle. To do this, a manicure is done very carefully, always using an anti-cuticle (a tool that destroys bonds between keratin fibers). The eponychium is then easily removed.
After application, degrease the surface well, as the product contains oil, and this may prevent good adhesion of the coating to the keratin of the nail. Be sure to lift the proximal fold! We clean out everything superfluous from there. If the cuticle has ugly, torn edges, you can walk along them with a cutter.
Coating is carried out by lifting the proximal roller. Sometimes it can be justmove the pusher - it will hold out for some time. Just enough to polymerize the base. If the roller does not hold well on its own in this position, hold it with your fingers.
When working in thin layers, it will be good to perform a manicure with gel polish under the cuticle. The proximal fold will hide the border of the coverage. Over time, the nail will move forward, a new eponychium will grow, and the border will become visible. But the nail will remain covered with a thin skin, as if descending from the cuticle.
The impression that the gel polish is applied flush with the cuticle will remain. Of course, after two or three weeks, the coating will need to be renewed. But gel polish is designed for this.
Edged manicure and its effect on gel polish under the cuticle
When doing a cut manicure, you can be completely sure that the proximal roller will not interfere with applying layers of gel polish. The advantage of such a manicure is that it can be done without an anti-cuticle. A simple maceration (bath) with hot water softens the skin well.
Since gel polish does not like wet nails, dry your nails well after manicure. Consistent processing of fingers with further isolation from water will not take much time. By the time you need to apply the base, the first hand will be completely ready. It will take five to ten minutes to dry the second one.
Since the cuticle is removed, it will grow along with the extension of the nail. This will keep the effect of "gel polish under the cuticle" for two to threeweeks.
Varnish technique
The usual technique for applying varnish is as follows:
- The brush is placed on the nail at an angle of 45°, not reaching the cuticle 1 mm, and spreads like a fan.
- The brush in this position moves to the cuticle and stops on the hair before reaching it.
- The brush stretches to the free edge.
- The brush is placed on the nail in the cuticle area and makes a turning movement, painting the corner of the nail, then stretches to the free edge.
- The movement of the brush is repeated on the other side.
- The end of the nail is sealed.
This is how all layers of the coating are applied, there are at least four of them: base, two layers of color, top. This is a general scheme of how to paint gel polish under the cuticle.
Gel application technique
Gel is thicker than varnish in consistency. To work with it, you need other brushes. To thinly apply gel polish, you can use a palette and gel technique.
A little gel polish is applied to the palette with a brush from a bottle. For application in the cuticle area, it is better to choose an art brush with a beveled corner for Chinese painting.
Taking a little shellac on the brush, put it on the nail, not reaching one millimeter to the cuticle. With a pointed corner of the brush, we make a movement that describes a semicircle, and in this way we cover the nail in the cuticle zone.
Further application is similar to the varnish technique. The layers are very thin. To lay out the material thicker, hold the brush almostlying. To remove excess material, lift the brush, increasing the angle.
Meaning of thin layers
The thinner the layer, the less dispersion. Keeping this in mind, when applying a dark color, it is important not to make the layers translucent. To prevent this from happening, you should carefully lift the pigment from the bottom of the bottle.
Poor-quality gel polishes will surprise you: at the bottom, along with the pigment, there will be crumbs of dissolved plastic from the cap. We remove the crumbs not on the nail, but on the palette. Here is another plus in the direction of applying gel polish with an art brush from the palette.
It is especially important to seal the end of the nail in thin layers when doing a jacket. The free edge can then have up to six layers. If you do not follow the thin even distribution of the material, you can get "beauty" from the first photo at the beginning of the article.
It doesn't take much wisdom to apply gel polish under the cuticle. The main thing here, as in general in nail art, is accuracy and concentration. And everything will work out.
