Lengthening the nail plate is an ordinary operation for a nail master. In the process of development of this direction of manicure, new technologies and types of extended nails appeared. Materials more and more adapted to the embodiment of any ideas of the master, and gradually nail modeling became an art.
New forms of artificial nail plates are constantly being created. All of them are highly durable and comfortable to wear. A properly formed nail is difficult to break, as it has a well-thought-out architecture. Compliance with the laws of building an arch is the key to wearing extended nails for a long time.
What are artificial nails
The main types of extended nails are the following forms:
- Square.
- Oval.
- Almonds.
- Stiletto.
Each form has its own varieties, which also have their own names. A square, for example, may have slightly rounded tips and a slightly curved free edge line. Then it is called "Soft Square". On thein nail stylist competitions, this is an unacceptable form, since judges determine the quality of the layout of the material using clear lines. But for everyday wear, competitive squares are inconvenient: they cling to tights, scratch babies, and break off. Therefore, a soft square is a salon shape.
The same can be said about the stiletto. The classic stiletto is by definition a long form. Suffice it to recall this melee weapon. Such nails will bring a lot of trouble in everyday life. A simple sawing of the free edge of the stylet at a length of one centimeter will form the "Ballerina" shape. This is also a salon version, unrecognized by the classics, beautiful and original. The design looks great on him.
Apex
All types of extended nail forms are united by the rule of building an apex - the highest point of the modeled nail, where the longitudinal and transverse arches intersect. In order for the artificial material to adhere well to the natural nail, good adhesion (adhesion to the keratin of the nail) is not enough. A properly formed nail has a curved cross-sectional shape called the C-bend. The volume of laying out along the entire length of the nail also forms a bend - longitudinal.
If the C-bend in modern modeling is symmetrical and is about 50% of the circle, then the buckling has its highest point not at the middle of the length, otherwise the structure would be too heavy and prone to breakage. Depending on the length of the natural nail plate, this point is located either above the middle of the natural nail, or slightly closer to the cuticle. She iscalled balance.
If you look at the artificial nails from the side, it becomes clear how the line, rising from the cuticle, then goes parallel to the axis of the nail or smoothly descends to the free edge.
Oval shape
Among all types of extended nails, the most classic is the oval. This form is suitable for both young and older ladies. It looks good on wide nail plates and great on narrow ones, comfortable to wear, easy to adjust. No wonder she never goes out of style.
Designs look great on this form, especially textured ones that imitate natural surfaces, wool, leather, velor. A cameo is made on it - usually a flower or a girl's head framed by a carved frame. Then the nails become decoration.
Shape "Almond"
To build a stylet, the auxiliary shape is slightly lowered down. Then, when laying out, a beautiful line of longitudinal bending is formed, and when the free edge is formed, the side lines turn out to be parallel to the axis of the finger. Otherwise, the nails will springboard.
This graceful shape resembles an almond: from the side of the cuticle, it has an oval ending, and narrows towards the free edge. Unlike the outlines of natural almonds, artificial nails have a more elongated shape. By pressing the arch, the nails become narrower and more beautiful.
Classic almond is built on the basis of the equal length of the free edge and the nail bed. In the case when the nail bed is naturally short, it is lengthened. ATmodern methods, this operation is included in all types of extended nails.
Square shape
On the basis of this classical form, avant-garde nail models are built: "Monroe", "Pipe", "Bridget" and others. If an ordinary square has a semicircular transverse arch and right angles of the free edge, then these new forms have edges in the arch, the free edge line is beveled at an angle of 45 degrees or more, material is added in the stress zone.
When viewed from above, the shape of the nails may resemble an almond or stiletto, but the side view of extended nails reveals edges, so that the shape resembles a square. There are subtleties in the construction of each avant-garde model, which consist in the correct setting of an auxiliary form or template.
Shape "Pipe"
This shape is artificially modeled, it will not work from natural nails. The cost of such nails will be much more expensive than the usual salon lengthening. It will also take more time - from four hours. The ability of the manicurist to build the correct architecture of the "Pipe" form is a kind of quality mark.
This form has many advantages: perfect lines, the ability to perform on any nails, even the shortest ones. Due to the strong stiffening ribs, it is practical and convenient. Translated pipe - "pipe". Fingers with long nails of this shape look perfect: graceful, thin, with narrow nail plates. But after the allotted time, you will have to overgrow your nails, since this form is not corrected.
The transverse bend of the nail is 50 percent or more, the free edge looks like a tube. When substituting an auxiliary paper form, make sure that it lifts up a little. So after laying out the material, the edges of the nail will become parallel, otherwise they may bend down. The free edge is filed in the shape of an oval, square or stylet.
Acrylic or a suitable new generation gel will be required to complete the mold. On tips, such a form cannot be made. The sides of the artificial nail are pressed with forceps during polymerization, achieving a beautiful C-curve.
Stiletto shape
This form, initially difficult, has varieties. These are two- and three-sided surfaces. There are also classic stilettos, even and smooth, but they don’t cause such delight anymore.
In 2018, the fashion for this uniform was revived, but now it’s not enough to make a white jacket. Long and narrow nails require imitation of metal surfaces. Triangular stilettos are the best fit for this idea.
Age and Bridget Shapes
Modeling nails of the "Age" shape requires painstaking observance of all the subtleties of construction. Even with external similarity, nails that are correctly built and those in which mistakes are made cannot be distinguished on the basis of appearance alone. Violation of modeling technology will lead to breakage of nails, often with trauma to the nail bed.
When viewed from the side, properly extended nails show free edge lines parallel to the axis of the finger. For this, an auxiliarythe form is set slightly raised up. A sufficient thickness of material is laid out along it to form a strong stiffener. The balance point must also have sufficient material under it.
Where the nail bed meets the central facet, the upper shape of the artificial nail is similar to the lower one. The side edges can be of different widths, they do not affect the strength.
In the process of wearing, the balance point shifts, but still remains within the boundaries of the natural nail plate. This protects the nail from breakage and cracking.
The "Bridget" shape has two faces and three planes, with the third one located in the center and tapering towards the end of the free edge. When viewed from above, such nails resemble stilettos. The inner arch is triangular, the outer arch is trapezoid.
Monroe Uniform
The "Monroe" shape has three faces, but its upper face does not converge to one point, but has a certain free edge line. When viewed from above, the nails appear to be a truncated stylet. It was developed by a Ukrainian modeling master, carefully analyzing the laws by which arched structures are built. The involvement of architects and designers made it possible to create a perfectly solid structure, with fine edges and high aesthetics.
Auxiliary forms are substituted with a slightly raised edge. So during the laying out of the material a large volume will be created in the stress zone. The transverse arch of the free edge is not created during polymerization with forceps, but immediately. For this, an auxiliary form is pressed. If you look at the pattern withbutt, you can see a thin oval. During polymerization, the sides of the nail are pressed in the stress zone.
Form "Modern"
This form consists of two: "Stiletto" and "Pipe". Its author is an American manicurist. Top view - stylet, side view - square. Often the free edge is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, and the side edges are a bit like a butterfly. The next shape is called that.
Butterfly shape
The side view of the extended nails of this shape resembles the wings of a butterfly. The corresponding design creates the complete impression that these cute insects are fluttering on the tips of the nails. In fact, the author called this form "Blade", but the name "Butterfly" turned out to be stronger.
Materials and technologies
All of the above types of gel nails are created using templates. When choosing a material, some masters combine acrylic and gel technologies. But the vast majority still work with a gel. Now there are gels of different characteristics: for laying out the free edge, for stiffening the structure, colored soft gels and building strong structures.
When filling the template, gel properties such as shape retention are important. If it is too liquid, it will be impossible for them to work on large surfaces - it will flow onto the cuticle, lie unevenly on the side faces. Therefore, high-quality gels are needed to build complex structures, and this is not cheap.
At the end of the stilettoto give additional strength, fill with a small ball of acrylic. The gel in such a place may not dry out completely, but acrylic will not let you down.
Reviews of masters and their clients
To increase not just the length, but to create a work of art on the nails, masters are constantly improving their skills. Wearing ordinary ovals and squares all the time gets boring, and then it's time to try avant-garde forms of extended nails. Names and reviews about them are directly proportional to originality. The more complex the form, the rarer it is, the better the customers respond to it.
The most convenient, according to many, form of "Monroe". It wears well, retains its decorative effect for a long time. If desired, it can be decorated with a modest design. But even an office jacket looks festive on her. The second most popular form was the "Pipe". There already exist its varieties with and without edges, with a vertical oval in the section of the free edge, with different widths of the side edges.
For the design of extended nails, the ideas embodied in such forms are very advantageous: any fantasy can be realized. So, having first appeared at competitions in front of the jury, these forms are gradually descending from the podium into our lives.
Conclusion
Photos of extended nails, types and names given in this article do not exhaust the whole variety. Every year the old form is improved or a new one appears. There is a fashion for the length, shape and design of nails. And, although naturalness has been in fashion for several years, the ability to model perfect nailsattracts many. The twenty-first century brought with it the need for a good manicure. Try one of the modern arched forms and feel at the forefront.
