Georgia is famous for its art, inexhaustible energy and unique color. For many centuries, an amazing symbiosis of Eastern, European and Georgian traditions has been formed in the country. Local craftsmen created and still create unique things and jewelry. Georgian enamel is especially famous. It is she who will be discussed in our article.
National decorations
At all times, the beautiful half of humanity loved to wear jewelry. It is now common to say that diamonds are a girl's best friend. But not in Georgia. Since ancient times, local women have appreciated the author's Georgian minankari. Such decorations are very distinctive and beautiful. They can be worn to a social event, birthday, friendly party or worn every day. And the best gift for a girl just can not come up with. Over the centuries, enamel art has reached certain heights. To this day, a huge number of salons-workshops operate in Georgia, where you can not only buy a colored product, but also see a whole mastermaking class.
Cloisonette
In the nineteenth century there was a special rise in the culture of Georgia. It was during this period that unique ancient techniques were recreated and new ones developed. Progress has not bypassed the world-famous technique of Georgian enamel, called cloisonné. Jewelry made in this style amaze with its bright beauty and sophistication.
It's hard to imagine, but the manufacturing method has remained unchanged for twelve centuries. Such jewelry can rightly be called a work of art of Georgia. The cost of jewelry is not inferior to products with precious stones.
The cloisonne enamel is a complex and costly enamel technique, which to this day is not amenable to mechanization. Perhaps this is its value and uniqueness. If the technique could be mechanized, then the decorations would cease to be original and unique. Minanakari is an integral part of Georgian culture.
A bit of history
Enamel technologies have been used for a long time, back in ancient Greece and Rome, where gold jewelry was coated with special substances. Historians consider Cyprus (tenth century BC) to be the birthplace of enamel art. In those distant times, they already began to use primitive techniques to create jewelry. Gradually, art gained more and more popularity.
The technique and technique of coating the enamel of metals has gradually evolved. The ancient Celts, for example, had champlevé enamel, it was herlater and will be called cloisonné.
Enamel is a thin vitreous coating that is obtained by melting glass powders with the addition of various metals, which give different shades to the finished product.
Art flourishes
The heyday of cloisonné enamel jewelry came in the Middle Ages. Byzantium became the main center for the development of technology. And Georgia was the closest neighbor and has always experienced a significant influence of Byzantine culture, so local craftsmen quickly adopted amazing skills. Already in those days, Georgian enamel had its own characteristics. The products of local craftsmen were characterized by a special handwriting, which has been preserved to this day.
In the future, for some time, technology was forgotten. And only in the nineteenth century there was a rapid revival of enamel cloisonné art. The Georgian Museum of Art presents a large collection of icons, crosses and decorations made using this technique by medieval craftsmen.
Museum exhibits
Examples of silverware with enamel were scattered throughout the churches and monasteries of Georgia. Unfortunately, not all of them have survived to this day, since many temples were repeatedly robbed and set on fire. Many works disappeared without a trace or were destroyed. But those decorations and icons that have survived are kept not only in the museums of the country, but also in the Hermitage, private collections and even the Metropolitan Museum.
Mostart monuments of cloisonné enamel date back to the 8th-12th centuries. Such a venerable age of products did not affect their beauty and charm at all. Among the items there are later works - from the period of the 15th-17th centuries.
First items
It is worth noting that in the old days, jewelry art developed only within the framework of a religious direction: painting icons, temples, crosses and religious paraphernalia. And only in the sixteenth century did art go beyond the church and take on a secular character. Since art did not initially depart from religion, the artists did not use complex abstractions. The ancient masters did not bother to superimpose halftones. They made their drawings brighter so that the icons could be seen in the dim temples.
But time has passed, and with the production of secular jewelry, the requirements for technology have changed.
Enamelware technique
The production of modern jewelry still uses a technique that has not changed for twelve centuries. In addition, the adhesive formulation remains unchanged, with the help of which the partitions are fastened to the metal base. The solution is prepared according to an old recipe - based on quince peel.
Enamel itself is currently purchased from abroad, since there are enterprises that have specialized in the production of enamel paints for more than two hundred years. It is hard to imagine, but such paints have an incredibly wide palette. In total, there are more than 200 shades. It should be noted that enamel paints are very difficult to use, because foreach color needs its own temperature.
As the basis on which partitions are attached, jewelry metal products are used. Very often they make silver with enamel. However, modern technology allows the use of numerous alloys as a basis.
Georgian enamel is characterized by traditional, very bright ornaments. Most often, masters use marsh and wine shades.
Steps in creating jewelry
Currently, in Georgia, craftsmen still make jewelry using the old technology, but with more modern alloys. Precious metals are not always used to make jewelry using Minankari technology. Bracelets, rings, earrings can be made of high-quality alloys, which are then enameled.
The process of creating jewelry consists of several stages. A metal product made of silver, copper or cupronickel is taken as the basis, then the contour of the future pattern is applied to it, after which thin metal partitions are attached, which form cells. Artists fill each such small cell with enamel of different shades. After the prepared product is fired in a special furnace, ground and polished. At first glance it may seem that the process is incredibly simple. In fact, this is not so. The process of applying partitions to metal is very painstaking and complex, especially if the pattern is not simple. It may take a couple of days to create one silver ring, for example, and to work onother product - a few months. It all depends on the complexity of the drawing. Some masters of their craft compare their work to the painstaking and careful movements of neurosurgeons.
The opinion of modern experts
According to experts involved in the study of cloisonné enamel technology, modern techniques differ significantly from the ancient ones. It's hard to compare them at all. Now for the manufacture of jewelry using this technology, silver is most often used. Rings, earrings and bracelets are all that are always in demand. The cost of such products is quite high due to the complexity of the work. But, for example, the ancestors tried to work only with gold items, and high-grade metal was used. Silver and gold have completely different melting points. And this means that metals come into contact with enamel in different ways. Silver is less compatible with enamel than gold.
The latter is ideal for applying cloisonne. But with silver products, everything is much more complicated. To work with them, modern masters have come up with a new technology of counter-enamel. Production looks a little different. The silver item is sprinkled with enamel and then fired. This is done for strength. After that, a second layer of enamel is applied on top.
The technology of setting cells is also different. Ancient craftsmen fastened them to the base using soldering. Now the partitions are fixed on the basis of the same enamel. Next, the product is fired in a furnace, and the molten mass firmly holds the cells.
Currentlytime in Georgia there are a lot of workshops for the production of products from cloisonne enamel. They make a variety of jewelry: bracelets for women, rings, earrings, pendants and much more. Many graduates of art academies stop working on cloisonne enamel.
Modern enamels
Now a lot of jewelry is sold in Georgia, which are popular among tourists. Buying a wrist bracelet for a woman or a ring is not a problem. Such a practical souvenir-gift will be appreciated by any girl, especially if it is made using the technique of cloisonné enamel. However, it should be understood that modern masters have gone far from their ancestors. Not only materials and technologies have changed, but also the enamel itself.
If the ancient masters covered the products with a layer of paint from one to three millimeters, now the thickness of the enamel reaches only 0.5 mm. European enamels used in the work are designed for thin application. In the old days, only natural minerals and materials were used to prepare the color coating. But modern technologies dictate completely different conditions.
Instead of afterword
Modern jewelry is not always different and unique. They, like other accessories, are subject to fashion trends. And yet, every woman dreams of having special jewelry at her disposal, albeit not very precious. If you happen to visit Georgia, be sure to pay attention to enamel jewelry. By purchasing this product, you willthe owner of an original and original item that is not subject to changes in fashion trends. Bright jewelry will be the best addition to your look.
