The term "high fashion" is often used in conversations about high-end clothing, but what does it mean? First of all, it is tailoring of an exclusive wardrobe. These are things that are handmade for a certain customer, from expensive fabrics, with special attention to various details. Production requires the work of professionals of the highest level and takes a lot of time.
High fashion originated in the 19th century in Paris. Charles Frederick Worth created a new philosophy for making clothes. He opened the first fashion house. Then others appeared, and among the ladies from the upper class it quickly became customary to order clothes from such fashion designers.
In 1868, Worth and his sons created the Paris Chamber, which still determines the houses that can wear the title of "High Fashion". Further, in 1946, 106 such official houses appeared, meeting all the criteria that were established in 1945 by the chamber.
Their number by 1952 had noticeably decreased - up to 60. This was due to the influence of the world war on this industry - mass goods begansupplant quality manual production. Gradually, the need to make clothes to order for a long time began to seem senseless to many. Trends got easier, and Paris needed to figure out a way to keep its haute couture alive. So instead of the Chamber in 1973, the French Federation appeared in order to preserve all the traditions. This organization announces the location and time of the world-famous French fashion weeks.
This syndicate retains its importance and continues to protect traditions, developing them and protecting its members. They also set quality standards. The position of the Chamber states that only members of the list, which is updated annually, can call themselves fashion houses. The right to wear the proud title of "High Fashion" is given to members of the Chamber who comply with the following rules:
- Studio near the house must be located in Paris, where at least 15 people work constantly;
- clothes are made for private consumers, with 1 or more fittings;
- twice a year, this house must present to the Paris press a collection of 35 or more looks (evening and daytime).
After the introduction of these rather severe restrictions, the number of official houses was reduced to 18 by 2000. In 2002, after Yves Saint Laurent retired, closing his house, there were 12 of them left. Haute Couture 2012 introduced official members, including the following houses: Anne Valerie Hash, Adeline Andre, Chanel, Atelier Gustavo Lins, Christophe Josse, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Franck Sorbier, MaurizioGalante, Jean Paul Gaultier, Giambattista Valli and Stephane Rolland.
How long can the French Fashion Federation exist with such a small number of houses? The uniqueness of their products is incredibly important to consumers, but at home the clientele is aging. Young women who can afford haute couture are much more likely to prefer more practical and comfortable ready-to-wear clothing. But despite this, every year there is a haute couture week in Moscow, causing incredible interest from both the press and the public.
For most of the remaining houses, status is only important for prestige, while high fashion shows are very ruinous. The 4 biggest brands - Dior, Chanel, Gaultier and Givency - use their title as a kind of marketing tool that improves sales of collections, accessories and perfumes.
But if you move away from the standards, high fashion is still relevant - stunning handmade clothes are back in favor. Although haute couture houses should take into account that today they are not the only source of such clothes, and they need to compete with other manufacturers.
