Few straight-haired girls do not dream of curls, in fact, and vice versa. But now this problem is solved both for one day and for a longer period. You can make light chemistry on hair, long or short, in almost any beauty salon. And then you can either fall in love with your straight hair, or repeat the procedure. And to make it easier to decide on chemistry, it is better to know all the nuances of this procedure.
What is chemistry?
This is the name of permanent hair waving. This is a perm that does not last until the next wash, but from three to eight months or even - until the hair grows back, depending on the composition.
Under the protective shell of the hair contains a special protein - keratin. If a special composition reacts with this protein, then it can be fixed for a long time in any desired state. When applied to the hair, it penetrates the keratinlayer and soften it. At this moment, the curl must be fixed in the desired position, for example, by winding it on curlers.
To curl hair with this method, they are first prepared and only then a special composition is applied. Under its influence, the curls are fixed in a twisted position for so long. After they dry, they are treated with a fixing composition, and the procedure is completed.
So the hair structure can be changed for a while. Over time, of course, the effect of the reaction will pass, and new hair will still grow with a structure that is genetically laid down. Carl Ludwig Nessler made this discovery back in 1908. This procedure has remained relevant, only the method of wrapping and the compositions used are changing.
Could the chemistry not work?
Unfortunately, yes, there are types of hair that do not lend themselves to even conventional curling compounds. This is thick and coarse hair with the so-called horse structure. As well as thick black curls.
In this case, you need an individual approach and selection of funds. There are stronger compounds that will be fatal for average hair, but not for such thick hair. In addition, in this case, special skill is needed when working with styling and diffuser.
What is the difference between modern chemistry and Soviet chemistry
Those who have not personally experienced this procedure often have a stereotype in their minds that chemistry is always “killed” hair. And there is a reason for this, a few decades ago it was so. Even in the photo, light chemistry for long hair of that time looks as if the curls are not their own, but this is a dry, lifeless wig. But now the composition is completely different. Their hair can be damaged only if the structure is incorrectly determined and the time is not calculated. There are many manufacturers of formulations, the main thing is to make sure that the product has been tested and approved for use in a particular country. Since the norms for the content of toxic substances in different countries vary. The most popular and trustworthy brands are:
- Loreal;
- CHI.
Despite the fact that modern formulations are much gentler on the hair and scalp, they are still not recommended for pregnant and lactating women. And also do not ignore the preliminary test for allergies in the crook of the elbow. Still, the compositions are quite caustic and can harm allergy sufferers. Before the perm procedure, after dyeing the hair with a permanent dye, you must withstand at least 48 hours. If you follow these precautions and contact only trusted specialists, then the hair after a modern perm may well still be shiny and lively.
Steps of preparation for a perm
If a haircut is needed, it is done before curling. This is the only way to guarantee the correct formation of the curl. After that, you can proceed first to the preparation, and then to the procedure itself. Preparation is carried out in 5 stages:
- Assessment of the condition of the scalp andascertaining the presence of contraindications. At this stage, it is important to be honest with the master and not be shy, otherwise you can hurt yourself a lot.
- Evaluation of the structure and condition of the hair. This stage is very important, the choice of composition and timing depend on it.
- Checking hair for fixation. They take one hair and lubricate it with the composition, wind it for 5 minutes. According to his condition after, an assessment is made. At this stage, the GM may decide to change the composition.
- Allergy test. The composition is applied to the bend of the elbow, wait about half an hour and wash off. If no redness or other reactions appear, it can be used.
- Shampoo with a deep cleansing shampoo that will lift the hair scales so that the formula reaches the keratin layer faster.
Next, if everything went well, the procedure can begin. If something went wrong, then either change the composition and try everything again, or cancel the procedure. A good master values reputation and knows that in the end this approach will bring him more money.
Steps of the procedure itself
They have not changed much since our grandmothers and look like this:
- Applying composition. This stage can be carried out in two ways: first apply the composition, and then wind it on curlers, or first wind it, and then sprinkle it with the composition. If you do this in the first way, then the curls will be tighter. At the second, the chemistry will be easy.
- Washing off the composition. Only after that the curlers are removed and the hair is washed again.
- Apply a neutralizing soothing emulsion. It is not washed off, but distributed evenlyhair.
- Hair is blow-dried while styling.
After this, the procedure is considered complete, and you can’t wash your hair for another 48 hours so that the curls finally “grab”.
Types of chemical compositions
Basically, the types of perm are divided by the type of composition used:
- Acid is made on the basis of acids, most often thioglycolic, the most aggressive and persistent type of composition, but the result lasts up to six months. For too soft and thin hair do not use.
- Alkaline. The composition is based on alkali, the curls with it are pronounced, but the effect lasts no more than 3 months. Yes, not as long as with acid, but it is quite possible to apply on thin hair.
- Neutral is a mixture of alkaline composition with neutralizers in the form of an acid. Thus, the effect will be longer than from alkaline formulations, but less harm will be done to the hair than when using an acidic one. Great compromise.
- Biowave - a composition based on exclusively natural ingredients, but at the same time it lasts for a long time, about 5 months. The disadvantage of such a perm is the price, and yet natural is not always the most gentle.
- Amino acid. Amino acid-based formulations that react with keratin, which is also an amino acid in nature, so the hair structure is not affected, but the effect is very short-term.
- The silk perm is made with a composition rich in silk proteins. Hair after it really looks great - like silk, and keeps like thatthe permanent is long, but for the procedure for shoulder-length hair, you will have to unfasten at least 5 thousand rubles.
- Japanese, or otherwise lipid-protein waving. It appeared in Europe relatively recently and is already gaining wild popularity, as it looks natural, lasts a long time and the hair hardly suffers from it. But the price for this type of perm, as well as for silk, is rather big.
Which type to choose, the wizard will tell you and the possibilities of the wallet. If funds allow, then it is better, of course, to make chemistry for long hair using Japanese technology or a composition with silk proteins. But other types also have their advantages and are not far behind in quality.
Root Chemistry
If you wind the hair a little only at the roots, then they will rise and the hair will have such a long-awaited volume. Such a volume will not settle during the day, as with normal styling, but will last as long as the composition with which the chemistry was made allows.
Best of all, of course, this type of permanent will be noticeable on short hair. Root chemistry on long hair will be less pronounced due to the fact that the hairstyle will settle under the weight of the hair.
And also root chemistry is done for those whose old perm is still holding, but the roots have already grown a little. Then the perm is refreshed in this way.
Vertical chemistry
Otherwise it is called spiral. This is when the curls are wound on a conecurling iron or long curlers - spiral bobbins. Then the curls are spiral. It is important to wind the bobbins from the very roots, otherwise the hairstyle will settle in this area.
This type of perm, like vertical chemistry, is ideal for long hair. Moreover, the best type of hair for this look is just long and preferably thick curls. It will look advantageous after this type of styling with wet effect.
Curls size
It directly depends on the size of the curlers or bobbins on which the hair is wound during curling. The larger the diameter, the larger the curls will be. Light large chemistry for long hair will turn out if you hold the curlers of the largest diameter a little less than for tight curls. The master will tell you the exact time after the test on the strand. But the direction of the curls already depends on the winding technology and skill of the master.
Often, clients have a question: if you do light chemistry on long hair with bangs, then what to do with it? There are actually three options:
- don't touch her at all;
- wind the same way as the rest of the hair;
- wind on a larger diameter.
Which one to choose depends only on personal preferences. How best it will look in a particular case, the master can advise, because he already has an eye for this. But straight bangs with curled hair do not look very modern now.
Reviews
Judging by the reviews, light chemistry for long hair most often upsets only the collapse of some hopes. Clients expect that, having done it, they will forget about styling completely for the next six months. But it's not! In addition to more thorough care than before, you still need to make an effort to make your hair look decent. And also, some eventually realize that curls do not suit them as much as they seemed. Therefore, before deciding on the procedure, it is recommended to do the styling in the salon and try to be like this for a couple of days. Perhaps this is the case when you want curls only because they are not given by nature, and not because this is the best styling option.
But in general, when choosing a proven master, there are practically no negative reviews for such a procedure. All the negative is due to the fact that the master overexposed the composition or chose cheap and low-quality products. The procedure is quite laborious and requires professionalism. Therefore, finding your permanent master is the main key to success.
Hair care after chemo
Despite the fact that a perm greatly facilitates the daily styling of hair, this does not mean that you need to forget about caring for them altogether. Yes, after light chemistry on long hair (see photo in the article), they look alive and shiny. But still, after permanent waving, hair suffers, although not in the same way as in Soviet times.
But this can be compensated by special care. The principles of such carethe following:
- change all funds for nourishing and regenerating ones;
- do not neglect the conditioner;
- after washing, do not wring out the hair, but lightly blot with a towel;
- Use revitalizing masks 1-2 times a week;
- lubricate the ends of the hair with a drop of nourishing base oil after washing;
- hiding hair from cold and sun;
- include foods rich in omega-3 acids in the diet;
- do not use massage combs and fine combs;
- try to wash your hair less often, especially since after the procedure they will dry out a little at the roots.
Only if these rules are strictly observed, the perm will please, as well as save precious time in the morning, which can be spent on sleep or loved ones.
